Most beginner and intermediate climbers are limited to the routes they can climb because of their ability to use certain hold types.
Hold Types
Though there are many variations of hold, there are five basic hold types.
Crimps
Crimp Holds are small edges that are only big enough for the tips/pads of your fingers.
Jugs
Jug holds are held that you can wrap your fingers around.
Pinches
Pinch holds are held with your thumb on one side and your fingers on the other, creating a pinch.
Pockets
Pocket Holds are holes in the rock that are usually big enough for two fingers but can fit 1-3 fingers.
Slopers
Sloper holds are large and round without an edge and require open-hand friction to hold on.
How to test your proficiency
This is a basic test that will help you identify your strengths and opportunities to improve. Recognizing the types of climbing holds that you are proficient in vs. the climbing holds that you need to work on will help inform your training to help you become a better climber.
What You’ll Need:
- A climbing gym that matches whatever climbing you do (aka bouldering vs sports climbing, etc.)
- A printout of the test is available below
- Timer (Optional)
Instructions:
- Identify climbs with the majority of climbing holds that you want to focus on for the test
- Set your timer (or have a friend time it for you) for two minutes
- Climb the route as many times as possible while taking a mental note of the difficulty/ rating.
- After two minutes, rate yourself on a scale of 1-5 with 5 being an expert
- Break for 5-7 minutes between each test to recover and be at full strength before the next test. Take additional rest time, if needed
If you become increasingly tired and are unable to recover quickly or feel strain on any tendons, stop. This test can be broken between multiple climbing sessions if needed.
