How a Pro Climber Trains for Crimps and Pockets

Join professional climber Tash as she reveals the rigorous training routine and mental strategies that have propelled her to success on the wall. From endurance workouts to tackling fears, learn how Tash approaches climbing both physically and mentally.

👩‍🦰 Introduction to Tash

Tash is a dedicated climber who made a bold choice to pursue her passion full-time. Leaving her dental assistant studies behind, she committed herself to the climbing world. Today, she stands as a professional climber, inspiring many with her journey.

She frequently tackles outdoor projects featuring small crimps and pockets on overhangings. With each route, she’s honing her skills and pushing her limits. Her passion for challenging climbs has led her to become a sponsored athlete.

💪 The Importance of Endurance

Endurance is crucial for all climbers, whether on ropes or boulders. Tash emphasizes the need for stamina to execute multiple moves without resting. Incorporating endurance training can prevent burnout and enhance climbing performance.

Your subscription could not be saved. Please try again.
Your subscription has been successful.

Get a Fresh Climbing Drill in Your Inbox Every Week!

Join today and transform your climbing while having fun.

undefined

🏋️‍♀️ Endurance Workout: Six in Six

One of Tash’s favorite endurance workouts is called “Six in Six.” This drill is designed to build stamina for climbers of all levels. It consists of completing one boulder problem every minute for six minutes straight.

How to Do It

This workout can be done on any board but it’s recommended to use mirrored boards like the Grasshopper, allowing you to flip the problem for a new challenge. If you lack access to a board, simply choose any route in the gym.

  • Perform one boulder problem per minute.
  • The rest period is whatever time is left in that minute.
  • Choose routes that challenge you to push your limits.

undefined

🏋️‍♂️ Adjusting for Gym Limitations

Not every climber has access to specialized equipment like mirrored boards. However, Tash emphasizes that this workout can be adapted to any climbing gym. The key is to maintain the structure of the workout while using available resources.

Alternative Approaches

If you don’t have a board, consider repeating the same route or selecting a different problem that enhances your endurance. The goal is to ensure that you still gain the benefit of higher-intensity climbs.

  • Use any available climbing routes.
  • Focus on maintaining one route per minute.
  • Challenge yourself with unfamiliar problems.

undefined

🏋️ Off the Wall Training Routine

Tash’s off-the-wall training includes five key exercises to enhance her climbing performance. This routine focuses on strength, crucial for tackling challenging climbs.

Exercises Overview

Some of her favorite exercises are:

  • Hangboarding
  • High pull-ups
  • Squat jumps
  • Sliding lunges
  • Knee tucks

undefined

🧗 Hangboarding Technique

Hangboarding is essential for building grip strength. Tash emphasizes longer hangs at twenty seconds, allowing for a forty-second rest to maximize endurance.

Form Matters

Maintaining good form is vital. Beginners can try keeping their feet on the ground for safety while still reaping the benefits.

undefined

💥 Power Building with High Pull Ups

High pull-ups are a game-changer for strength. Tash uses momentum for explosive power, transitioning to more challenging reps without bands over time.

Explosive Movement

This exercise is paired with squat jumps to enhance overall explosiveness, crucial for climbing dynamics.

undefined

💥 Explosive Movements: Squat Jumps

Squat jumps are a fantastic way to build explosive strength, vital for climbing. Tash emphasizes the importance of starting from a deep squat position to match climbing movement better.

How to Perform Squat Jumps

Begin with your bum touching your ankles, then explode upward to jump onto a box or platform. This movement engages your core and legs, promoting power.

  • Start from a low squat position.
  • Focus on a powerful upward thrust.
  • Land softly to reduce the impact on your joints.

🏃 Sliding Lunges and Knee Tucks

Sliding lunges and knee tucks are essential exercises in Tash’s routine that enhance strength and stability. These movements target multiple muscle groups for better climbing performance.

Sliding Lunges

For sliding lunges, aim to stay as low as possible. Complete four lunges on each side to maximize effectiveness.

  • Maintain a low position throughout.
  • Focus on balance and control.

undefined

Knee Tucks

Knee tucks are challenging but beneficial for core strength. Start with straight arms, engaging your core as you pull your knees up.

  • Keep your arms straight while engaging your core.
  • Focus on controlled movements for better form.

📝 FAQ: Tips for Aspiring Climbers

If you’re an aspiring climber, you might have questions about how to improve your skills and overcome challenges. Here are some frequently asked questions along with valuable tips to help you on your climbing journey.

What Should I Focus on as a Beginner?

As a new climber, it’s essential to build a strong foundation. Focus on mastering basic techniques and improving your strength and endurance.

  • Practice footwork to improve your balance.
  • Work on grip strength through hangboarding.
  • Incorporate endurance workouts into your routine.

What Are the Best Exercises for Climbing Strength?

Incorporating strength training into your routine is crucial. Focus on exercises that target the muscles used in climbing.

  • Hangboarding for grip strength.
  • Pull-ups to build upper body strength.
  • Core exercises like planks and knee tucks for stability

author avatar
SARA WADE
Your subscription could not be saved. Please try again.
Your subscription has been successful.

Get a Fresh Climbing Drill in Your Inbox Every Week!

Join today and transform your climbing while having fun.