These are my three favorite techniques in climbing. Some may consider them the foundational parts of climbing technique and it’s for good reason – most climbs can be completed by relying on these three.
The Rockover:
A rockover is a climbing technique in which the climber rocks onto a hold by moving sideways instead of upwards. This is a fundamental climbing technique that is frequently required for slab and sometimes vertical routes. Many climbers have practiced this move in one form or another without knowing the name.
To perform a rockover, the climber first needs to find a secure foothold. Once they have found a foothold, they can then shift their weight over the hold by swinging their hips. As they swing their hips, they should also be lifting their other foot up to the next hold. The key to a successful rockover is to keep the climber’s center of gravity over their feet at all times.
Rockovers can be difficult to learn at first, but with practice, they become easier. The best way to practice rockovers is to find a slab wall and climb up it using only rockovers. As you become more comfortable with the movement, you can start to climb more challenging routes that require rockovers.
Here are some tips for performing a rockover:
- Find a secure foothold.
- Shift your weight over the hold by swinging your hips.
- Lift your other foot up to the next hold.
- Keep your center of gravity over your feet at all times.
- Practice on a slab wall until you are comfortable with the movement.
Rockovers are a valuable climbing technique that can be used on a variety of routes. With practice, you can learn to perform rockovers efficiently and effectively.
The Flag
A flag in rock climbing is a technique used to counterbalance the climber’s weight and maintain balance. It is done by extending a limb (usually the foot) away from the body and using it to create a counterforce. This helps to prevent the climber from swinging out or losing their balance.
Flagging can be used on any type of route, but it is especially useful on overhanging routes where the climber’s weight is constantly pulling them away from the wall. It can also be used to gain more reach or to prevent a barndoor swing (when the climber’s body swings out from the wall).
To flag, the climber extends the limb away from the body and engages the muscles in that limb to create a counterforce. The limb should be kept as straight as possible to maximize its effectiveness. The climber should also keep their hips close to the wall to maintain their balance.
Flagging is a simple but effective technique that can help climbers to climb more efficiently and safely. It is a good technique to learn for all climbers, regardless of their skill level.
Here are some tips for flagging:
- Keep the limb as straight as possible.
- Engage the muscles in the limb to create a counterforce.
- Keep your hips close to the wall.
- Practice flagging on different types of routes.
With practice, flagging can become a natural part of your climbing technique. It will help you to climb more efficiently and safely, and it will give you more options when you are faced with difficult climbing moves.
The DropKnee
A dropknee is a climbing technique that involves weighting the outside of one foot, rotating the hip toward the wall, and lowering the knee; the other foot rests against a hold for support. This position entails swiveling the corresponding hip towards the wall and torquing the knee downwards (hence the name).
Dropknees are most helpful on walls with relatively steep angles as a method of controlling stability and tension. They can be used to reach holds that seem far away, to balance on the wall while climbing, and to generate an upward motion with the feet and hips, as opposed to using the arms to pull.
To do a dropknee, the climber first needs to find a good foothold for the outside foot. The foothold should be big enough to support the weight of the climber’s body, and it should be placed at a comfortable height. Once the foothold is found, the climber can then rotate their hip towards the wall and lower their knee. The other foot should be placed on a hold that is close to the first hold, and it should be used to provide support.
The key to a successful dropknee is to keep the climber’s center of gravity over their feet at all times. If the climber’s center of gravity falls too far to the side, they will lose their balance. It is also important to keep the knee bent when doing a dropknee. This will help to prevent the climber from hyperextending their knee.
Dropknees can be difficult to learn at first, but with practice, they become easier. The best way to practice dropknees is to find a steep wall and climb up it using only dropknees. As you become more comfortable with the movement, you can start to climb more challenging routes that require dropknees.
Here are some tips for doing a dropknee:
- Find a good foothold for the outside foot.
- Rotate your hip towards the wall and lower your knee.
- Keep your center of gravity over your feet at all times.
- Keep your knee bent.
- Practice on a steep wall until you are comfortable with the movement.
Dropknees are a valuable climbing technique that can be used on a variety of routes. With practice, you can learn to do dropknees efficiently and effectively.
