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Sizing climbing shoes is always a gamble, but the Unparallel Up Lace adds another layer: you’re not just picking a size, you’re picking how much you want to compromise between all-day comfort and precise edging power. Get it wrong and you either can’t feel the holds or you’re ripping them off after two burns.
Climbers keep talking about these shoes at the crag for a reason. They’re stiff, which means your feet don’t get trashed halfway through a long session. If you’ve ever worn soft shoes on a route filled with edges, you know the problem: they feel great at the start, then your feet give out before your arms do. The Up Lace fixes that with a supportive midsole that keeps your feet fresh through volume days.
The fast lace system also makes it easier to take them on and off between burns. When shoes are a pain to get off, you end up belaying in them, getting mud all over the rubber and not giving your feet the break they need. These make it easy to swap into something with a spacious toe box while you’re on belay duty.
Who the Up Lace is for
The Up Lace works best for climbers who spend long days on vertical to slightly overhanging terrain with lots of small edges. If you’re projecting multi-pitch trad routes, working endurance circuits at the gym, or putting in volume days on sport routes, the stiff midsole and supportive fit keep your feet from getting trashed halfway through the session.
They’re also solid for climbers who hate the faff of aggressive downturned shoes. The lace system gets you in and out fast, and the relatively flat profile means you can actually walk around between burns without feeling like your toes are in a vise.
Who should skip them
If you’re working steep boulders or roof problems that demand toe hooks and heel precision on volumes, the Up Lace probably isn’t sensitive enough. The stiff sole trades feedback for support, so you lose some of that direct connection to the rock on smears or technical slab.
They’re also not ideal if you prefer a super snug, no-dead-space fit. The lace system gives you control, but the overall shape is more accommodating than aggressive, so if you like your shoes borderline painful for maximum performance, look elsewhere.
Sizing guidance
Most climbers size the Up Lace close to their street shoe size or a half size down. The goal is a snug fit without hot spots, since you’ll be wearing them for hours at a time. If you size them too tight, the stiff sole won’t soften up much over time, and you’ll just end up with numb toes.
Unparallel’s sizing tends to run true, but foot shape matters more than the number on the tag. If you have a wider forefoot, you might need to go up a half size to avoid pressure points along the sides. If you have a narrow heel, the lace system helps lock it down, but test the fit on a wall before committing to a full day in them.
One thing to watch: the laces give you adjustment range, but they can’t fix a fundamentally wrong size. If the shoe feels too short in the toe box or too loose in the heel when you first try them on, lacing them tighter won’t solve it.
Common sizing mistakes
- Sizing down too aggressively because you’re used to soft, aggressive shoes. The Up Lace doesn’t stretch much, and the stiff sole won’t mold to your foot like a softer shoe will.
- Ignoring heel fit. A loose heel means your foot slides forward on every step, which kills precision and makes the shoe feel smaller than it is.
- Not testing them on edges before buying. Stiff shoes can feel fine walking around the shop but uncomfortable under load if the fit isn’t dialed.
Fit checklist before you buy
Try them on and stand on a small edge or foothold if the shop has a test wall. Your toes should touch the front without curling or going numb. Your heel should stay locked in place when you weight the shoe. If you feel any sharp pressure points along the sides or top of your foot, try a half size up.
Walk around for a minute. The shoe should feel snug but not painful. If you’re already thinking about when you can take them off, they’re too tight.
Confirm the return policy with the shop before you buy. Sizing is personal, and what works for someone else might not work for you.
Alternatives to consider
If you want something stiffer and more aggressive for steep terrain, the La Sportiva TC Pro is a classic. If you want a lace-up with more sensitivity for technical face climbing, the Scarpa Instinct Lace trades some support for better feedback.
If the Up Lace feels too stiff but you still want all-day comfort, the Five Ten Anasazi VCS offers a softer feel with a hook-and-loop closure that’s almost as fast.
Ready to try them? Check current price at Backcountry and confirm sizing before you commit.
