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If you’ve got one rope and you’re wondering whether you can rappel on a dynamic rope, you’re not the only one. I had a dynamic rope for rock climbing and wanted to know if I could use it to rappel too, so I did some digging before I trusted it on a descent.
You can safely rappel on a dynamic rope. Plenty of climbers rappel off anchors at the top of a cliff using the same dynamic rope they lead on. A dynamic rope is built for lead climbing, so rappelling with it means you only carry one rope instead of a static rope for rappelling plus a separate rope for climbing. That said, if the rope’s only job is to rappel and you’re not climbing on it, a static rope is the better pick.
When It’s Fine to Rappel On a Dynamic Rope
The main difference between static and dynamic rope is how much it stretches. What you’re doing decides which one you want. When you’re climbing and you fall, you want the rope to stretch a little to cushion the catch. When you rappel on a dynamic rope, that stretch isn’t doing you any favors, but it isn’t dangerous either as long as your gear is sound and you’re set up right. So if you already own a dynamic rope and you’re heading out to climb and rappel on the same day, going down on it is a normal, accepted thing to do.
The catch is comfort and wear. A stretchy rope gives a slightly bouncier, less controlled descent, and over time that stretch adds up to more wear. If rappelling is the only thing the rope will ever do, a static rope keeps everything tight and smooth. If you’re brand new to going over the edge, our beginners guide to rappelling walks through the basics before you commit to a rope.
The Best Rope To Rappel
The difference between static and dynamic rope is the amount of stretch, or elongation, in the rope. The activity you’re doing dictates the type of rope you need. If you’re climbing and falling, you want the rope to stretch slightly to help cushion the fall. When you’re rappelling, you want the rope to stay tight so the descent is as smooth and easy as possible, both for the person going down and for the gear doing the work. Because you want everything as tight as possible, you don’t want any give or stretch, and that’s why static rope is ideal for rappelling.
Every time the rope stretches, it can rub more against rock edges, and that rubbing wears the rope down faster. Static rope is also usually cheaper than dynamic rope, so it’s easier on the wallet if all you’re doing is descending.
If you climb and rappel a lot, you might be wondering whether you should just buy one dynamic rope and be done with it. If you can swing it, I’d get a separate rope for rappelling. Here are the things to weigh when you compare the two.
► The Best Rope for Rappelling
Static Rope Tends to Be Less Expensive Than Dynamic Rope
Static ropes usually last longer and cost less than dynamic ropes. The price depends on how much rope you need, and the brand, diameter, and dry coating all move the number around too. Here’s a rough range you can expect based on length and type of rope.
| Length | Static Rope | Dynamic Rope |
| 30 Meters | $85 to $110 | $85 to $110 |
| 60 Meters | $175 to $200 | $180 to $210 |
| 100 Meters | $200 to $270 | NA |
Static Rope Tends To Last Longer Than Dynamic Rope
When you rappel, durability isn’t just about how long the rope lasts, it also affects your safety. Static and dynamic ropes are both durable, but a dynamic rope typically wears faster when you use it for rappelling.
Here’s why. If the rope runs over the edge of a rockface, a dynamic rope stretches and constricts as you move, and that motion rubs it against the rock. A static rope stays tight and doesn’t stretch or constrict, so it doesn’t rub against the rock as much.
The belay device you rappel with also changes how much wear the rope takes as you slow down and speed up on the way down. An ATC rappel device (check current price), which a lot of climbers use, has metallic grooves that add friction and control for the person on the device.
The difference between that and a device like a Figure 8 (check current price) is that the grooves put more pressure on certain parts of the rope, while a Figure 8 tends to spread friction more evenly. That uneven friction across the rope can wear it out faster. If you want to compare devices head to head, our guide to the best rappelling device for canyoneering breaks it down.
► The Best Rappelling Device for Canyoneering
Static Rope is Less Multi-Functional Than Dynamic Rope
Static rope is designed and tested for activities like caving, canyoneering, rescue, or hauling gear, where you don’t want any stretch. You don’t want the rope tied to an injured climber to bounce while you move them. But static rope isn’t good for climbing, because it doesn’t flex when a climber falls and it isn’t tested for the kind of impact that climbing puts on a rope.
Dynamic rope isn’t ideal for rescue, but you can use it for both rappelling and climbing, so it’s more of a do-it-all rope. The takeaway is this: if you want one rope for both climbing and rappelling, a dynamic rope is a good call until you can afford a second rope just for rappelling. If you don’t plan on climbing, invest in a static rope that will give you the most rappels possible on a tight line. Either way, know the safest way to rappel before you weight the system, and have a plan for how to retrieve your rope after rappelling so you’re not left stranded at the top.
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Standard Testing and Ratings
When it comes to rope safety, there are standard tests and ratings that separate a safe rope from one that rappellers and climbers should leave on the shelf. There are also different standards for dynamic climbing rope and static rope.
Impact Force
One of the biggest differences is impact force, which tells you how much force lands on the person tied in and on the anchor system in a fall. For a dynamic rope, that impact force is about how much force hits the climber, the belayer, and the anchor system if the climber falls.
For a dynamic rope to be certified as safe by the UIAA, the international climbing and mountaineering federation and a world standard for safety gear, the maximum impact force is 12kN for a single rope and 8kN for a half rope tested on one strand.
So with a half rope or twin rope setup, the rope is built to keep the force on the climber low if they fall. This rating is based on a fall factor of roughly 1.77 in the drop test, which sits near the hardest catch a rope is likely to take.
Static rope is a different animal. It’s built to hold high loads, but it isn’t made to absorb the energy of a fall, so falling on it puts far more force on your body than a dynamic rope would, and that can lead to serious injury. The point is you shouldn’t be falling on a static rope at all, because you should always be below the anchor. As long as you rappel safely and stay below your anchor, you never load it with that kind of force.
Standard Falls Before Breaking
Another big difference in testing is how many falls a rope can take in the standardized drop test before it breaks.
For a dynamic rope, a single rope has to hold at least five drop-test falls before failing. Some multi-fall ropes are rated to nine.
Static rope, on the other hand, isn’t rated for falls and isn’t required to go through fall tests. When there’s no slack rope in the system and you’re below the anchor, your fall factor is 0. So there’s no reason to run fall tests when you’re thinking about how long the rope will last. If you want to keep your skills sharp between trips, here are 5 ways to practice rappelling.
► Beginners Guide to Rappeling
Frequently asked questions
Can you rappel on a dynamic rope?
Yes. You can safely rappel on a dynamic rope, and lots of climbers do it so they only have to carry one rope for both climbing and rappelling. Just know that the stretch makes the descent a bit bouncier and wears the rope faster than a static rope would.
Is static or dynamic rope better for rappelling?
If all you’re doing is rappelling, a static rope is better because it stays tight for a smooth descent, wears slower, and usually costs less. If you’re climbing and rappelling on the same rope, a dynamic rope is the more versatile choice.
Why does a dynamic rope wear faster when rappelling?
A dynamic rope stretches and constricts as you move, and when it runs over a rock edge that motion rubs it against the rock. A static rope stays tight and rubs less, so it tends to last longer for pure rappelling.
Can you fall on a static rope?
You shouldn’t. Static rope isn’t made to absorb the energy of a fall, so loading it with a fall puts far more force on your body than a dynamic rope would. When you rappel correctly you stay below the anchor, your fall factor is 0, and you never load the rope that way.
How many falls can a dynamic rope take?
In the standardized drop test, a single dynamic rope has to hold at least five falls before it fails, and some multi-fall ropes are rated to nine. Static rope isn’t fall-rated at all because it isn’t meant to catch falls.
More Like This:
- How To Retrieve Your Rope After Rappeling
- 5 Ways To Practice Rappelling
- Can You Rappel On A Dynamic Rope? Static Vs. Dynamic Rope For Rappelling
- The Best Rappelling Device For Canyoneering
- Comparing Different Types Of Rappeling
- The Best Rope For Rappelling
- Harnesses For Rappeling
- Beginners Guide To Rappeling
- How To Self Rappel With A Grigri
- What Is The Safest Way To Rappel?
