Thinking about a bouldering gym membership and want to know the real pros and cons of indoor bouldering before you hand over your card? Here’s an honest rundown from a climber who’s inside most weeks. I’ve also dropped a checklist at the end to help you decide if a gym membership is worth it, and whether a specific gym is the right one for you and gives you everything you want out of your climbing.
Pros of Indoor Bouldering Gyms
The indoor bouldering gym is a great place to train. Most of the strong climbers you’ll meet put in serious time at their local gym, and it’s easy to see why. Indoor climbing gives you exercise equipment and a wall full of problems all in one spot. On top of that, most bouldering competitions happen on indoor walls, so training inside is good practice if you ever want to compete. If you’re brand new to it, our guide on what bouldering is is a good place to start.
Bouldering Gyms Have Training Equipment
If you only ever climb, your strength-training options are pretty limited. Gyms with free weights, pull-up bars, hangboards and the like let you build strength faster than climbing alone can. When you want to train a weakness off the wall, having that gear a few steps away is a big help.
Bouldering Gyms Have A Lot Of Climbing Routes/Problems All In One Place
When you’re bouldering, it’s nice to knock out a bunch of climbs in one session, warming up on a few easy ones and then working your way up to harder problems. An indoor gym is perfect for that because it packs a ton of routes into a small space, so you can try problems at different levels and in different styles in a short amount of time.
It also keeps things fun. You get to try all kinds of climbs, and if you get sick of one problem you can just walk over to another.
Bouldering Gyms Cater To All Levels
Bouldering gyms usually set everything from intro grades up to V13 or harder, depending on the gym, so it doesn’t matter how experienced you are, you’ll find plenty of routes that fit you or push you. Same goes for climbing styles. Whether you’re good on crimps or slopers, or you need work on them, there’s a problem that’ll challenge you and easy ones to warm up on too.
Bouldering Gyms Have Climate Control
Climate control means you can climb year-round, no matter what it’s doing outside. That matters a lot if you live somewhere that snows or rains often, because you can keep bouldering without the weather getting in the way.
Bouldering Gyms Make It Easy To Meet New People
A gym is full of people who share your interest, all in one room, so it’s an easy place to meet new climbers. It also feels safe to meet people there, because you’re surrounded by other climbers, staff, and usually cameras keeping an eye on things.
Bouldering Gyms Can Help With Beta and Training
Gyms are full of climbers of every level, plus staff who probably know the problem you’re stuck on and can hand you some beta if you ask. Most gyms and climbers won’t give you free coaching sessions, but they’ll often share basic pointers or a drill to help you get stronger or clean up your technique. If you want structure, our bouldering drills guide is a solid starting point.
You’ll also see other people working or sending the exact climb you’re stuck on, so you can watch how they move and pick up beta that way, or just ask them. Climbers are usually happy to share tips, especially on a problem they just finished or spent ages projecting.
Bouldering Gyms Are Conveniently Located So You Can Maximize Climbing Time
Bouldering gyms are often right in town near where you live or work. That makes it easy to squeeze in a session on your lunch break instead of driving to the mountains, hiking to the crag, climbing, hiking back and driving to work. You can climb for a bit and be back at your desk without much fuss. A lot of gyms even have changing rooms and showers, so you can clean up before heading back.
Climbing At The Bouldering Gym Has Mental, Emotional, Social And Physical Benefits
Just like climbing outside, bouldering indoors comes with a pile of mental and emotional benefits. Studies show climbing lowers anxiety and depression, sharpens your learning and performance, boosts your memory, and more.
There are social benefits too, like better communication, more trust, and new friendships.
And the physical side is obvious: cardio, muscular endurance, and raw strength.
For the full rundown, check out this article, The Benefits of Rock Climbing.
Bouldering Gyms Are Built To Be Safe
Most countries regulate climbing gyms with rules that push owners to keep things safe. That usually means plenty of padding around the fall zone so injuries stay minimal. The facilities, holds included, tend to get cleaned often too. Most injuries in the gym come from overuse, like cranky finger tendons, and it’s less common to get hurt from a fall or stung by a bee or anything like that.
Bouldering Gyms Have Bathroom Facilities
One perk of climbing indoors is real facilities, like a bathroom that gets cleaned often and actually has toilet paper, which is a nice touch. Some gyms also have showers and changing rooms, so you can head straight to work after a session without stopping home, or hit the gym right after work.
If you do use the bathroom or shower, take your climbing shoes off and switch to flip flops or another pair. That keeps you from tracking bathroom grime onto the wall with your shoes, and it keeps you from picking up foot fungus from other climbers.
Cons of Indoor Bouldering
Climbing Is Dangerous
Even though gyms are built to be as safe as possible, and they’re safer than climbing outside, climbing is still dangerous. The mats around the fall zone cut down the odds of getting hurt, but you can still tweak an ankle or wrist if you fall or jump off a problem. And while a bear isn’t going to eat you indoors, you can still pick up foot fungus from walking barefoot or catch something going around the gym.
If you’re at the gym a lot, keep your hands away from your face and wash them well after every session. That cuts your odds of catching whatever someone sneezed onto the holds.
Climbing Gyms Cost Money
This is probably the biggest con of indoor bouldering, because compared to heading out to the mountains, a gym charges you to climb their walls. Those fees cover the building, the gear, the route setters, rental shoes, and the rest. Plenty of climbers grab a membership so they can climb often for less than paying a day rate every visit.
Indoor Bouldering Gym Handholds Are Rough On Your Skin
Indoor holds are made of rough plastic. That texture is hard on your hands, and when you first start climbing inside you’ll probably get flappers, skin tears, and rough calluses.
Indoor Bouldering Gym Footholds Are Rough On Your Shoes
Just like the handholds, footholds are the same rough plastic. That texture can chew up your shoes if you don’t use quiet feet in the gym. To use quiet feet and save your rubber, be deliberate with every foot placement, set it once so you don’t have to readjust, and place it softly enough that it doesn’t make a sound. It’s worth knowing what gear you actually need for bouldering so you’re not burning through shoes faster than you have to.
Indoor Bouldering Gyms Have “Regulars” That May Make You Feel Insufficient
Most climbers are friendly people who either don’t care how good you are or totally get where you’re at. But a few think they’re better than everyone and might toss out a snarky comment. It’s not common, and honestly I haven’t run into anyone who’s complained about it, but like any sport, some folks will say something that makes you feel like your climbing isn’t good enough. If that happens, keep in mind they started right where you are, and you can reach their level with hard work and training.
You Will Always See Someone Much Better Than You At A Bouldering Gym
There’s always someone better than you at bouldering, and you’ll notice them more at the gym. That can be a con if you like being the best or feel bad watching other people crush. I still find it humbling when a kid half my size and age cruises a problem I’ve been projecting for days.
That’s especially true when you’re a beginner, but even in the higher grades the gym is where the strong climbers train, so unless you’re number one in your region, you’ll probably watch people float climbs that are still hard for you.
Climbing Gyms Are Usually Open to Families, Including Excited Children
A lot of the kids at the gym are probably better than you and there to train and compete, but you’ll also find kids running around, climbing right under you, or hopping on a problem you were clearly chalking up for. There’s usually a kids’ zone they’re meant to stay in, or a parent nearby keeping them in check, which helps. Still, unless you go while they’re in school, asleep, or eating, there’s a good chance they’ll be there. I don’t hit this often, and honestly college students are usually worse than kids, but it’s worth bringing headphones with decent music or an audiobook to tune out the noise.
If you’re a parent, though, this is probably a pro. It gives you a place to bring your kids, burn off their energy, and build their physical, mental and emotional well-being.
Indoor Climbing Gym Handholds Are Oily And Chalky
Depending on how nice your gym is, a popular route can get climbed so often that the chalk and oil build-up gets pretty gross. Most gyms head that off by resetting routes every month or so and washing the holds before reusing them. But some holds do get grimy, and a chalk brush and your shirt will clean them up.
Indoor Bouldering Gyms Have Different Routes On The Same Shape Wall
Even though gyms reset routes often so there’s always something new, some climbers gripe that the shape and angles of the wall stay the same, so the routes can feel a bit samey. It’s an uncommon complaint, and most people find the fresh sets give plenty of variety. A lot of gyms also change the wall shape with volumes.
Climbing Gyms Smell
Gyms handle stinky feet and sweaty bodies in different ways. Most use airflow and cleaning supplies to keep the smell down, but some older gyms seem built to trap it. It’s the same deal as any other workout gym, so if that doesn’t bother you there, it probably won’t bother you at a climbing gym.
Should You Get A Gym Membership?
After weighing the pros and cons of indoor bouldering, you might want to give it a shot. Trying it before you buy a membership is smart, because you may decide you’d rather just climb outside on good-weather weekends. But if you try it and love it enough to pay for a membership, there are a few things worth thinking about, especially if you’re deciding between a couple of gyms. If you’ve never set foot inside one, our guide on your first time at a bouldering gym will get you ready.
One more thing that helps no matter which gym you pick: I send a free weekly email with one climbing drill you can do in about 15 minutes. If you want to keep improving between sessions, you can grab the free newsletter here.
Indoor Bouldering Gym Location
One of the biggest perks of indoor bouldering is being able to run to the gym, climb as long as you want, and head home. But if the gym is an hour away and the mountains are 15 minutes out with a 20-minute hike, the gym might not be the convenient option after all. Here are a few questions to ask about location before you buy a pass.
- How far away is the bouldering gym from your work?
- How far away is the bouldering gym from your home?
- Is the gym closer or more convenient than the crag or other climbing gyms?
- What time of day do you want to go climbing? Is the traffic reasonable at that time?
Safety And Cleanliness
Most countries have laws that gyms have to follow to stay open, but it’s still worth checking things out yourself so you feel safe and clean while you climb. For example, does the gym have a rule against wearing climbing shoes in the bathroom? If it doesn’t, there’s a good chance the holds you’re grabbing have bathroom floor all over them.
- What type of training do employees have to help keep climbers safe?
- Does the climbing gym have any rules to promote safe climbing?
- How frequently are facilities cleaned?
- Does the gym clean handholds when they set new routes?
- Are there signs about safety or cleanliness posted throughout the gym?
- Is there a sign on the bathroom door that asks you to remove your shoes before entering?
- Is there a first aid kit on-site and easily accessible?
Membership Benefits
Along with unlimited access to the gym, it’s worth comparing membership perks between gyms. Some gyms throw in clinics or yoga classes that pair well with climbing and might be a fun way to try something new.
- Are guest passes included in the membership?
- Does the climbing gym have adequate padding so you can climb without a spotter?
- Does the climbing gym offer additional classes such as yoga or strength training included in the membership fees?
- Are there climbing clinics, what are they, who are they for, and are they included with the membership fees?
- Are there member-exclusive events or competitions?
- Are there hours that only members are allowed to climb during?
- Are there discounts available on in-gym retail items or at nearby climbing stores?
- Are there gym trainers available for members to use? Is it included with the membership fees?
- Are there shoe rentals you can use for yourself or a guest free of charge, or do you need to rent or buy them?
Climbing Gym Facilities
All climbing gyms are built differently, and some have extras worth knowing about before you decide where to sign up. For example, some gyms play classical music in the background to help climbers reach a “zen” state of mind, while other climbers can’t stand classical music and would rather bring headphones for their session.
- How often are new routes set?
- Are there showers and/or changing facilities available at the gym?
- What is the check-in process for going to the gym? Is it long or short and easy?
- Is there climbing training technology such as a climbing treadmill or moon board?
- Is there strength training equipment available to use?
- Are there multiple gyms/locations that the membership works at?
- Is there music playing in the background?
- Does the climbing gym provide chalk for you to use, or do you need to bring your own?
Climbing Gym Rules
Climbing gyms have different rules that might sway your decision to sign up. Below are a few questions worth asking before you commit. Most gyms share the same basics, like downclimbing instead of jumping off the wall, but some have extra rules that make climbing there tougher. For example, some gyms won’t let you boulder solo, so you’d need to line up a friend if you want to climb.
- Are you allowed to boulder by yourself?
- Are you allowed to wear earbuds/headphones while climbing?
- Are there rules related to apparel/what you wear?
- Are there any tests you need to pass before you’re allowed to climb, or training/tutorials you need to go through?
Weighing the Pros and Cons of Indoor Bouldering
As you can see, there’s a lot to weigh before deciding to climb at a bouldering gym. If you decide the pros outweigh the cons, a membership is probably worth it.
I’m a climber who wants to climb my best and keep getting better. Being a member at a bouldering gym has been a huge part of that. I’ve got easy access to a ton of different routes, and I can go on my lunch break when there’s no other time to climb.
If you’re thinking about adding indoor bouldering to your routine, what do you count as the biggest pros and cons? Any questions you’d add before picking a gym? Drop a comment and let me know what you think.
Frequently asked questions
Is indoor bouldering worth it for beginners?
For most beginners, yes. A gym gives you routes at every level from intro grades on up, padded landings, climate control year-round, and plenty of climbers and staff who can share beta. The main trade-off is cost, since you pay to use the walls, so it’s smart to try a session before buying a membership.
What are the main downsides of climbing at an indoor gym?
The biggest con is that gyms cost money compared to climbing outside. On top of that, the rough plastic holds are hard on your skin and shoes, busy gyms can smell, and you’ll always see someone climbing harder than you. None of these are dealbreakers for most climbers, but they’re worth knowing before you sign up.
Is indoor bouldering safer than climbing outside?
Generally yes. Gyms are built with padded fall zones and are regulated for safety, so falls are less risky than they are outdoors. That said, climbing is still dangerous. You can sprain an ankle or wrist from a fall, and most gym injuries come from overuse, like sore finger tendons.
How do I choose the right bouldering gym?
Look at location first, since a gym you can reach on a lunch break is a lot more useful than one an hour away. From there, compare cleanliness and safety, membership perks like guest passes and classes, the facilities, how often routes get reset, and the gym’s rules, such as whether you can boulder alone.
More About Bouldering:
- What Is The Minimal Gear Needed For Bouldering?
- Can You Boulder Alone? The 8 Benefits Of Climbing Alone
- The Complete Guide For Bouldering Grades – What You Should Know
- Should You Wear A Helmet For Bouldering?
- Can You Boulder In The Rain Or When The Rock Is Wet?
- First Time At The Bouldering Gym – What You Should Know
- Pros And Cons Of Indoor Bouldering
- Indoor Bouldering: Do’s And Don’ts For Beginners
- Bouldering For Beginners: What You Need To Know
- A Guide For Climbers: Bouldering Drills 101
- Is Climbing and Bouldering Good For Cardio?
