Bouldering vs Rock Climbing: A Guide for Climbers

When it comes to bouldering vs rock climbing, both are climbing disciplines, but they split apart in a lot of ways. This guide breaks down the differences in gear, physical demand, culture, and the mental side that separate the two.

The most noticeable difference between the two is the height that you climb.

Bouldering is a type of rock climbing that doesn’t require a rope or harness because you only climb up to 12 to 15 feet. Rock climbing requires a rope and harness and you frequently climb more than 30 feet off the ground.

If you’ve been rock climbing or bouldering lately and wondered whether the other discipline is worth trying, or which one is best, this article gives you what you need to know so you can decide on your own.

There are multiple climbing disciplines, but this article breaks down the difference between bouldering and rock climbing, meaning rope-dependent climbing and non-rope climbing.

Your subscription could not be saved. Please try again.
Your subscription has been successful.

Get a Fresh Climbing Drill in Your Inbox Every Week!

Join today and transform your climbing while having fun.

Since everyone has their own preferences and goals in climbing, which discipline is best is completely subjective. So here’s the in-depth detail to help you decide if it’s worth cross-training or trying out the other side. If you want a wider look at where you climb, our guide to indoor vs outdoor climbing pairs well with this one.

Contents hide

What Is Bouldering

Bouldering is a climbing discipline that doesn’t require a harness or rope to climb safely. Bouldering routes are usually 15 feet high or shorter. Since there isn’t a rope to catch you if you fall, every fall ends on the ground, so a pad is used to soften the impact. Bouldering keeps getting more popular as world tournaments grow, and now that bouldering is in the Olympics, it’s picking up even more fans. 

The goal of bouldering is to reach the top of a climb, indoors or outdoors. Indoors, you use the same color handholds to reach the top. The challenge is getting through the problem without using the other colored holds.

Bouldering For Beginners: What You Need to Know

What Is Rock Climbing

Bouldering is a type of rock climbing that doesn’t require a rope or harness because you only climb up to 12 to 15 feet. Rock climbing requires a rope and harness, and you frequently climb more than 30 feet off the ground. Height isn’t the only difference, though. 

This article covers the gear differences between the two disciplines, but it also digs into the physical, cultural, and mental differences that set them apart. 

Pros and Cons for Rock Climbing and Bouldering

Deciding which discipline is best, rope-dependent or rope-free, is completely subjective and comes down to your goals and preferences. With that in mind, here’s a quick rundown of the key pros and cons for each to help you figure out which one fits you. 

For more detail on the differences between climbing and bouldering, keep reading below.

Rock Climbing Pros

  • You can climb for long stretches without being crowded by other climbers, because the routes are so high
  • You’ll likely have access to more outdoor climbs than bouldering has
  • Climbing gear usually fits in a backpack, so it doesn’t take up a lot of space
  • Most climbing gear is travel-friendly, so you can bring it with you when you go on vacation overseas
  • Rock climbing can be done year-round, indoors and outdoors
  • Since there’s a rope to catch you if you fall, you can choose to get back on the wall without starting over (unless you’re in a competition where that isn’t allowed)

Mad Rock Mars Harness 4.0 Deluxe Climbing Package is a great starter kit for beginner climbers. Check out discounted prices from Backcountry here.

Rock Climbing Cons

  • You need a climbing buddy or belayer to go rock climbing safely. That means coordinating times with another person, and you may be limited in when you can climb
  • Rock climbing is endurance-oriented, so if you only rock climb, you’ll likely struggle with advanced techniques
  • Rock climbing requires a lot more heavy gear than bouldering does

Bouldering Pros

  • You can boulder indoors without a spotter, meaning you can climb on your own without organizing and coordinating times to climb with another person
  • There’s less gear to carry when you’re bouldering outdoors

Bouldering Cons

  • Bouldering doesn’t teach endurance as well as rock climbing does
  • Even though you don’t have as much heavy gear as rock climbing, you still have to haul a large pad, which can be a pain to carry and bulky to store
  • Climbing pads are large, so they don’t travel well and you won’t be able to take one with you on vacation overseas
  • Every fall ends on the ground and you start over from the beginning, which is one reason people ask whether bouldering is dangerous

How Many Days Per Week Should You Boulder?

Different Climbing Grades

Climbing grades represent the different levels of climbs. They help climbers tell easier climbs from harder ones and track their progress. Bouldering and rock climbing grading scales are different because the goals of the climbs are different. For example, bouldering asks for explosive energy over a short, technique-focused burst. Rock climbing, by comparison, uses a steady amount of energy over a long period, so it’s endurance-focused. 

Each discipline has a US-based grading scale and an international scale that originated in France. Here are the different grading scales for each.

Bouldering Grades

Bouldering grades work a little differently than rock climbing grades. Like rock climbing, though, there’s a different scale in the US than there is everywhere else. Here are the two grading scales for bouldering.

V-Scale

Bouldering grades are a little different than climbing grading in the US. Instead of the YDS scale, bouldering uses the V-Scale, short for Vermin and named after a famous Hueco Tanks climber. The V scale runs from V0 to V17. Here is the typical breakdown of the level of climbing required for each grade.

  • V0 to V2: Beginner Level Climbing
  • V3 to V6: Intermediate Level Climbing
  • V7 to V9: Advanced Level Climbing
  • V10 to V13: Pro Level Climbing
  • V14 to V17: 0.01% Level Climbing

Font Scale

The Font scale is the international bouldering scale. It works the same way the French scale works in rock climbing. There are the same three parts to the grading system. For example, 7a+ breaks into 7, a, and +. This grading runs from 4 to 9 instead of 1 to 9.

  • 7 stands for the difficulty of the climb, which can be on a scale of 4 to 9
  • a stands for the degree of difficulty within the number scale of the first part of the grading system, which can be a, b, or c
  • + is additional difficulty for the a to c grading part of the scale, which can be + or -. The + means it’s on the more difficult side of that part of the grading scale. For example, 7a+ is more difficult than 7a and 7a-

The Complete Guide For Bouldering Grades

Rock Climbing Grades

Grading scales are different in rock climbing than they are in bouldering. Like in bouldering, though, there’s a different scale in the US than there is everywhere else. Here are the US and international grading scales for rock climbing:

YDS

In the US, rock climbing is graded on the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS). There are a few YDS grades scattered among the French grades around the world. There are three parts to the grading system. For example, 5.10a breaks into 3 parts, 5, 10, and a.

The 5 stands for the class of the climb. Classes run on a scale of 1 to 5. Class 1 represents a flat hike, while Class 5 represents dangerous terrain that requires a rope.

The 10 is the second part of the YDS grade, which refers to the difficulty of the climb. The a is the third part of the grading level. There can be a to d at the end of the grading, which represents additional difficulty within the standard 2 to 15. Here is the typical breakdown of the level of climbing required for each grade.

  • 5.2 to 5.9: Beginner Level Climbing
  • 5.10a to 5.11d: Intermediate Level Climbing
  • 5.12a to 5.13d: Advanced Level Climbing
  • 5.14a to 5.15c: Expert Level Climbing

French Scale

The French scale is the most common grading scale used in the world of rock climbing. Even people in the US frequently learn the French scale so they’re familiar with grades when watching climbing videos or taking climbing trips. Like the YDS scale, there are three parts to the grading system. For example, 7a+ breaks into 7, a, and +.

  • 7 stands for the difficulty of the climb, which can be on a scale of 1 to 9
  • a stands for the degree of difficulty within the number scale of the first part of the grading system, which can be a, b, or c
  • + is additional difficulty for the a to c grading part of the scale, which can be + or -. The + means it’s on the more difficult side of that part of the grading scale. For example, 7a+ is more difficult than 7a and 7a-

The two grading systems generally line up well and can be compared pretty easily.

Muscles Building In Bouldering vs Rock Climbing

Bouldering and rock climbing are two completely different disciplines. If you compare it to running, bouldering is like a sprint and climbing is like a marathon. That distinction isn’t only about the distance you climb, it’s also about the type of muscle and training you get from it. Both are great for you either way, which is why so many climbers wonder about the health benefits of climbing

For example, bouldering asks for more explosive movement, so your agility and power tend to be stronger from bouldering. Rock climbing, on the other hand, asks for more endurance, so energy conservation and muscle endurance are stronger in climbers who focus their training there. On top of endurance and explosive movement, climbing builds strength and muscle a little differently.

Mammut’s hangboard with phone mount is a great way to build finger strength. Check out the reviews and discounted prices from Backcountry.com

Muscles In Rock Climbing

  • Calves: Every time you place your toe on a hold and push up, you’re using your calves. Compared to bouldering, your calves are more likely to be engaged because they’re easier to load when you’re going straight up versus climbing inclined walls

Muscles In Bouldering

  • Abdomen: Compared to rock climbing, bouldering usually asks for more ab work. That’s likely because bouldering is usually steeper, so you have to engage your abs to stay on the wall and keep your hips against it
  • Forearms: Studies on the effect of rock climbing on health frequently note increased forearm strength and tie it to the grip that’s such a big part of climbing, especially bouldering 

Muscles in Both Climbing and Bouldering

  • Upper Body: Many climbers associate climbing with upper-body work because there are so many upper-body muscles involved. Here are the main ones used in climbing:
    • Deltoids: The anterior deltoids are an important muscle in pulling your body up while climbing and are one of the most dominant muscles climbers use 
    • Biceps: Not surprisingly, the effort of pulling yourself up with your arms is a bicep-heavy exercise 
    • Triceps: Just like biceps are used to pull yourself up, so are triceps. This is probably why climbers are notoriously great at pull-ups, which are also a tricep-heavy exercise 
    • Pecs (Pectoralis Major/Minor): The chest muscles are major muscles used for pulling down. Climbers frequently notice pectoral definition after continued climbing training 
  • Core: Your core is a huge powerhouse for climbing. Without your core muscles, you wouldn’t be able to make the movements climbing asks for. Here are the main core muscles used in climbing:
    • Lats (Latissimus Dorsi): Lats are what let you pull down. When you climb, you’re constantly pulling and building your lats
  • Lower Body: A frequently under-rated part of climbing by spectators, but your lower body is a huge part of getting up the wall, and climbers report increased strength and muscle definition. Here are the main lower body muscles used in climbing:
    • Glutes: Your glutes are the bridge to your legs and they get used more than climbers realize
    • Thighs: Even though climbing is often thought of as an upper-body exercise, your thighs can be one of the most used muscles while climbing 

12 Workouts To Increase Hand and Grip Strength

Techniques In Bouldering Vs Rock Climbing

Climbing technique covers footwork, balance, body position, and how to be more efficient on the wall. Technique matters in every discipline, and while bouldering technique carries over to rock climbing, there’s a difference in which techniques come up most. That’s because bouldering and rock climbing put different demands on the climb. Bouldering has a smaller number of moves, but they’re harder to complete. By comparison, energy conservation techniques get more practice in rock climbing because it’s an endurance-based discipline. With practiced technique, you’ll get through the problem more easily. 

Common Techniques for Bouldering

All of these techniques can be used in rock climbing, but they come up most in bouldering.

  • Balance: 
    • Pushing: You can create counter pressure by pushing your foot in the opposite direction
    • Pulling: You can create counter pressure by pulling with your hand or with a heel hook or toe hook
    • Leaning: You can lean your body weight in any direction by moving your hips to create a counterbalance

Common Techniques for Rock Climbing

All of these techniques can be used in bouldering, but they come up most in rock climbing.

  • Straight arms: Keeping your arms straight is an energy conservation tactic so you can keep climbing over long distances
  • Rest when you can: When you find a hold that’s easy to hang on or a foot placement that lets you rest, do it. Conserving and renewing your energy with rest helps you get through the harder parts of the route

Common Techniques for both Bouldering and Climbing

  • Footwork:
    • Edging: Edging is when you use the edge of your shoe to step on the hold 
    • Smearing: Smearing is when you use the wall instead of a foothold when a foothold isn’t available 
  • Hips:
    • Hip Direction: Many beginners square their hips to the wall because it feels stable, but it can push you away from the wall and stress your hip flexors, so learning to move your hips in different directions helps with the flow 
    • Hip Distance from the Wall: By keeping your hips closer to the wall, you keep your center of balance closer in and over your feet, which makes it easier to rely on your leg muscles
  • Using your Eyes:
    • Look at each foothold and watch your foot placement for the best coordination
    • Look at each hold and watch your hand placement for the best coordination
  • Flagging: This is a way to counterbalance before making a move by swinging your foot like a cat’s tail 

How to Use Climbing Holds: Techniques for Improved Climbing

Gear For Bouldering vs Rock Climbing

Common Gear for Both Bouldering and Rock Climbing

Rock climbing and bouldering share a lot of the same gear. Here’s a general list of what’s shared across both disciplines:

  • Climbing Shoes: Though you can climb without shoes, climbing shoes make it much easier. One of the biggest benefits is that they let you use small footholds you wouldn’t otherwise be able to use 
  • Climbing Chalk: Another piece of gear for both indoor and outdoor bouldering is climbing chalk. It isn’t a required tool for climbing, but it’s helpful and recommended. Climbing chalk has been shown to help climbers stay on holds longer 
  • Climbing Brush: Climbing brushes are used to clean off holds so they’re easier to grip. Brushes are usually an artificial-horsehair type, but a lot of climbers use toothbrushes. This is usually for more advanced climbs, and you probably don’t need one for beginner bouldering

How Tight Should Your Climbing Shoes Be?

Can You Climb Without Chalk?

Gear Specific to Bouldering

Compared to other types of climbing, bouldering takes the least amount of gear. Any gear you need is usually available for rent at climbing gyms or at local climbing shops. Unlike a rope or harness, bouldering gear is usually fine to buy second-hand, though if you like climbing and plan to do it a lot, investing in new gear can help with longevity. Here’s the gear that’s specific to bouldering:

  • Safety Mat: Because every fall in bouldering ends on the ground, mats are used to soften the impact. Most indoor gyms have extensive mats surrounding the area, but there are portable mats you can bring to outdoor boulders for safety too

Gear Specific to Rock Climbing

https://www.instagram.com/p/B6VkFCRgvAQ/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Rock climbing takes a lot more safety gear than bouldering. That’s because more safety gear is required for the longer, higher climbs.

37 Things Serious Climbers Bring With Them To The Mountains

  • Harness: Possibly the most important gear for a climber, harnesses are what keep climbers safely attached to the rope so they don’t hit the ground when they fall 
  • Belay & Rappel Devices: The belay or rappel device is a small device that clips to a belayer’s harness and controls the rope. Here is my favorite belay device
  • Carabiners: Carabiners are a specialized metal loop with a spring-loaded gate that connects things together. There are multiple types of carabiners in rock climbing, such as screw-gate locking, auto-locking, and non-locking carabiners 
  • Quickdraws: Quickdraws are a common device that has two carabiners connected with a semi-rigid material. Quickdraws are used to run the rope through and connect to the anchors 
  • Rope: The climbing rope is the main safety component in rock climbing. Without it, there wouldn’t be anything to keep the climber from hitting the ground if they fall 
  • Helmet: Climbing helmets protect belayers and climbers from falling rock or dropped gear. Unlike skating or biking helmets, climbing helmets are made specifically to protect the top of the head and don’t usually have protection on the side or back. Climbing helmets are also commonly very light so you can move your head and neck freely

My favorite Belay Device: Battle Tested

My Favorite Harness for Climbing

Other Differences Between Climbing and Bouldering

Aside from the items above, there are a couple of other differences between the two disciplines worth noting. In both bouldering and rock climbing you don’t usually climb alone, you have a climbing partner. Each partner has a key job, which we’ll cover below. 

Bouldering: Spotting

Bouldering doesn’t have ropes or harnesses, so every fall ends on the ground. To lower the risk of injury, boulderers use spotters. Spotters are people on the ground while you climb who help make sure that when you fall, you land on the mats and feet first. Spotting is usually only done outdoors, since indoor bouldering gyms usually have substantial mats around the entire fall zone. This is also something that doesn’t exist in rock climbing, because rock climbing has a harness, rope, and belayer.

Rock Climbing: Belaying

Unlike bouldering, rock climbing uses a rope and harness to keep you from hitting the ground if you fall. But the rope and harness would be useless without the belayer. A belayer is the person who manages the rope and uses a belay device to stop the rope from moving if you fall, which keeps you off the ground. This job in climbing is called belaying.

Belaying 101

Train In Both

Bouldering and rock climbing are both types of climbing, and they have a lot in common, but they’re also different disciplines.

Compared to running, bouldering is more of a sprint and asks for more explosive ability, including agility.

Rock climbing, by comparison, is more like a marathon that asks for more endurance and energy conservation. Because these disciplines are so different, it’s worth training in both.

By training in both, you get the benefits of explosive agility and added endurance. If you’d rather train both in one place, the Grip & Grind app builds short sessions around the movement patterns you use on the wall, so you’re not guessing at what to work on.

Want a steady drip of climbing drills to sharpen both? Our free newsletter sends you one climbing drill a week, about 15 minutes each, straight to your inbox. Level up your climbing with 15 minutes of training.

Frequently asked questions

What is the main difference between bouldering and rock climbing?

The main difference between bouldering and rock climbing is height and gear. Bouldering is a type of rock climbing that stays low, usually 12 to 15 feet, with no rope or harness and a pad to catch your falls. Rock climbing uses a rope, harness, and belayer, and you often climb more than 30 feet off the ground.

Is bouldering harder than rock climbing?

Neither is objectively harder, they’re just hard in different ways. Bouldering packs a small number of powerful, technical moves into a short burst, so it leans on explosiveness and agility. Rock climbing spreads the effort over a long route, so it leans on endurance and energy conservation. Which one feels harder depends on your strengths.

Which is better for beginners, bouldering or rock climbing?

Bouldering is often the easier place to start because it takes the least gear and you don’t need a belayer, so you can climb on your own. Rock climbing needs a partner and more equipment, but it teaches endurance and rope skills. Many climbers try both and stick with whichever they enjoy more.

Do bouldering and rock climbing use the same grades?

No. Bouldering uses the V-Scale in the US and the Font scale internationally. Rock climbing uses the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) in the US and the French scale internationally. The scales are different because the climbs demand different things, short and powerful versus long and endurance-based.

Should you train both bouldering and rock climbing?

Yes, cross-training in both is a good idea. Bouldering builds power and agility while rock climbing builds endurance, so training both makes you a more complete climber. An app like Grip & Grind can help you structure that work around the movements both disciplines share.

More Trending Topics Like This:

author avatar
Sara Climbing Coach, Climbing Trainer, Writer
Sara is the founder of Send Edition, author of '77 Drills to Help You Climb Better,' the creator of 'Elevate Your Climbing: Training Planner and Tracker,' and climbing coach.
Your subscription could not be saved. Please try again.
Your subscription has been successful.

Get a Fresh Climbing Drill in Your Inbox Every Week!

Join today and transform your climbing while having fun.