Over the past few years I’ve noticed how much my mental game affects my climbing. When I’m calm I flow. When I’m scared I grip too hard and pump out. So I went looking for a way to actually train the mental side, and that search is what led me to this Vertical Mind book review. The book is by Don McGrath and Jeff Elison, and it’s one of the few climbing books I’d hand to almost anyone at the gym.
The reviews on Audible were strong, so I spent a few weeks listening to it on my morning dog walks. It’s an easy listen and it stuck with me.
This article goes through my full take on the book. But if you don’t feel like reading the whole thing (and you’re getting the audiobook anyway), here’s the quick version:
Within the first five minutes of listening, I realized this book was going to be a great way to help with my climbing training.
Vertical Mind book review: should you buy it?
Short answer, yes. This is a book I enjoyed as an audiobook and I plan to grab the paperback too.
I’d happily recommend it. It’s well written, and it’s packed with detail you can actually use to climb calmer and stronger. It doesn’t just talk about mindset in the abstract, it gives you things to do.
My favorite part was the actionable drills it walks you through so you can build your mental strength. Take fear of falling. The book explains why you’re wired to fear it (spoiler, evolution made you want to avoid pain) and then it hands you drills you can run while you’re actually on the wall to work through that block. If that’s the piece you struggle with most, it pairs well with our guide on how to deal with the fear of falling.
It also helped me spot that I was over gripping out of fear. Now I check in with myself mid-climb to make sure I’m only squeezing as hard as I need to, and that alone has saved me a ton of energy. I think it’s part of why I’ve held on for some of my longer sends lately.
If you want to climb better and you’re ready to train the mental side, this book is a great place to start. For more on that side of the sport, we’ve got a whole piece on mental training for climbing that lines up nicely with the ideas here.
Content overview
Per the description, McGrath and Elison want to help climbers improve their mental game and have more fun climbing.
To get you there, they do four things. They 1) use brain science and psychology to lay out training for overcoming fear and anxiety, 2) teach climbers how to sharpen the mental game so they climb better, 3) show you how to coach other climbers through fear and anxiety, and 4) give you drills, exercises, and training to climb harder.
Here’s a quick look at how each piece landed for me:
- Use brain science and psychology to outline training for overcoming fear and anxiety. They nailed this. I came away understanding not just what makes the science work, but how to use it in my favor.
- Teach climbers how to improve their mental game. Two main sections carry this, one on getting stronger mentally yourself, and one on teaching others, which ends up sharpening your own game too.
- How to coach other climbers through mental training. Same two sections back this up. I had no plans to coach anyone (I’ll just hand them this book instead), but I still walked away knowing how to be a better climbing partner.
- Provide drills, exercises, and training. The book is full of drills for the wall and for home between trips. I’ve tried a few already, and with steady use I can see them paying off.
Who it’s for
The climbers who’ll get the most out of this are the somewhat seasoned crowd who fit one of these (or both):
- They want to level up their climbing skill and training
- They want to enjoy climbing more, or they don’t enjoy it like they used to
Newer climbers can benefit too, and they might even build a better training habit early instead of waiting until they’re more experienced. That said, some of the experiences that hit home for seasoned climbers might feel abstract to a beginner, so a few parts will land harder once you’ve got more time on the wall. If you’re keeping tabs on your own progress, pairing the book with a habit like keeping a climbing journal makes the drills easier to stick with.
Book length and price
Paperback: $22.74 for 274 pages
Kindle: $9.99
Audible: $12.99 for 7 hours 37 minutes
The value here is worth the cost. Even though I bought the Audible version, I’d tell you to get the paperback instead.
That way you can flip through to the training exercises whenever you need them.
With the audio version, there were plenty of times I wanted to re-listen to something from the day before, and skimming through audio is a lot harder than skimming through text.
Want something you can do in a few minutes a week without buying a thing? Our free newsletter sends you simple climbing drills you can run in about 15 minutes. Level up your climbing with 15 minutes of training and get a new drill in your inbox each week.
Frequently asked questions
Is Vertical Mind worth reading?
Yes. It’s well written and full of practical drills for the mental side of climbing, like working through fear of falling and catching yourself when you over grip. If you want to train your head the way you train your fingers, it’s worth the money.
Who is Vertical Mind by Don McGrath and Jeff Elison for?
It’s a great fit for somewhat seasoned climbers who want to climb harder or fall back in love with the sport. Newer climbers can get value too, though a few sections land harder once you’ve spent more time on the wall.
Should I get Vertical Mind as an audiobook or paperback?
I listened to the Audible version and enjoyed it, but I’d point you to the paperback. It’s easier to flip back to a specific drill than it is to skim through audio when you want to revisit something.
What does Vertical Mind actually teach you?
It uses brain science and psychology to help you train through fear and anxiety, sharpen your mental game, coach other climbers, and run drills at the wall and at home so you can climb harder.
Is it your head?
This book is one route into the mental side. The Fear Management guide covers why falling feels different from every other risk, and what actually works on it.
