The way you move through a climb depends on the types of climbing holds you’ve got in front of you. If you’re on a side pull or an undercling, you’ve got to set your body up in a strong position to pull on them. That’s why it pays to know the main types of climbing holds you’ll grab, and how to use each one.
Below are 14 of the most common climbing holds you’ll run into indoors and outdoors, plus the technique that works best for each. If you want to sharpen the movement side of things too, our roundup of 22 climbing techniques and how to do them pairs nicely with knowing your holds.
1. Jug Climbing Holds
Jug holds, also called bucket holds, are big open handholds you can wrap your whole hand around, and sometimes both hands. Most climbers love a good jug because it’s easy to hold and often gives you a spot to rest.
Rock Climbing Grip Technique for Jug Holds
Jugs are the easiest holds out there, so there isn’t much technique to them. Grab the jug with four fingers on the part that sticks out. If it sticks up, put your weight below it. If it sticks out to the side, put your weight to the opposite side. Whichever way the hold points, set your weight the other way and pull it toward your body.
2. Incuts/Mini Jugs Climbing Holds
This one is just like a regular jug, only smaller, and it’s probably the most common hold you’ll see. Usually you can only fit two or three fingers instead of your whole hand, and it may be shallower, so it’s a bit harder than a jug. The more you climb, the easier these get, and they turn into great rest spots too.
Rock Climbing Grip Technique for Incuts/Mini Jug Holds
You use incuts and mini jugs a lot like jugs, so get as many fingers on as you can and pull toward your body. Try to keep your arms straight when you reach one to save energy and cut down on pump.
3. Edge Climbing Holds
Edge or ledge holds are exactly what they sound like, the edge of a piece of rock. They can be small enough for a couple of fingers or big enough for both hands.
Split your hand into five parts: the fingertip, the middle of the finger (the area between the two joints at the end), the base of the finger (what touches your palm), your palm, and your thumb. An edge is anywhere you can get at least two of those parts on the hold. A lot of the time you can get all your fingers on it, and in rare cases everything but your thumb.
Rock Climbing Grip Technique for Edge/Ledge Holds
Edges can be easy or tricky depending on their size and angle compared to the direction you’re pulling. Get as many fingers on the hold as you can, then set your weight in the opposite direction of the angle so you’re pulling straight down on it.
4. Side Pulls Climbing Holds
Side pulls are basically edges turned on their side. The hold faces sideways, so your thumb points away from your body instead of up. You still want at least two parts of your hand on it, so hunt for the angle that lets you do that. If a hold faces the other way and you end up pushing out on it instead, you’re into gaston territory, which is worth knowing too.
Rock Climbing Grip Technique for Climbing Side Pull Holds
Like edges, side pulls can be easy or hard depending on the size and angle. Get as much of your hand on the hold as you can and set your weight the opposite way so you’re pulling it toward your body. A lot of routes give you a side pull for each hand at the same time, so before you start, figure out which hand pulls first and use the other to balance.
5. Crimp Climbing Holds
Crimps are small edges only big enough for the tips or pads of your fingers. Depending on the angle, you may need to shift your weight to the side for better friction so you’re pulling from a workable angle. This is the most dangerous hold on the list because of the higher risk of tendon strains in your fingers, wrist, and arm. Here is an article all about crimp climbing holds.
Rock Climbing Grip Technique for Crimp Holds
There are three ways to crimp: full, half, and open. Open crimp is the safest, so that’s the one we’d suggest. The big thing is to load as much weight as you can into your feet and use your hand mostly for balance when you can. Set your fingertips on the hold and put your weight to the opposite side so you can pull.
6. Pinch Climbing Holds
Pinch holds are just what they sound like, a hold you squeeze with your thumb on one side and your fingers on the other. A lot of climbers enjoy pinches because they bring your thumb into it, and there’s real power in that thumb. Building that squeeze strength off the wall helps, and these grip training exercises are a good place to start.
Rock Climbing Grip Technique for Pinch Holds
The technique is right there in the name, you pinch it. Fingers on one side of the hold, thumb on the other, and squeeze. The easiest way to use one is to set your weight to the side where your four fingers are instead of straight in front of the hold. That keeps you from burning more energy than you need to.
7. Pocket Climbing Holds
Pocket holds are holes in the rock, usually big enough for one finger but sometimes two or three depending on your hand size. Most climbers try to sink their middle and ring finger in since they’re the strongest pair.
Rock Climbing Grip Technique for Pocket Holds
Pockets are mostly about which fingers you sink in and pull down on. Rest whatever fingers don’t fit flat against the wall or the rest of the hold. If there’s room for three, use your index, middle, and ring finger. If there’s only room for two, the strongest and safest combo is your middle and ring finger. Some folks use the index and middle for a better angle, but that strains your tendons more, so we don’t recommend it.
Once your fingers are set, shift your weight to the angle that lets you pull. Some pockets let you pull from any direction, even from above like an undercling, so keep that in mind when you’re working out your beta (beta is the move-by-move plan for a route).
8. Monos Climbing Holds
Monos are just like pockets, only there’s room for a single finger. Because it’s one finger doing all the work, it takes a lot of strength in that finger and your forearm. The strain risk is high and you’ll mostly see them on harder climbs. When you’re on a mono, listen to how your body feels so you don’t tweak the finger and get hurt.
Rock Climbing Grip Technique for Monos Holds
The technique is a lot like pockets. Set one finger in the hold and rest the others flat against the wall around it. Most climbers use their index finger when the hold sits off to the side of the climb. Ideally you’d use your middle finger since it’s the strongest and connects best to the rest of your hand. Once your finger’s in, move your weight into a pulling position and pull the mono toward your body.
9. Slopers Climbing Holds
Sloper holds are big rounded “holds” (if you can even call them that) that slope away from the wall with no clear edge to grab. They’re usually harder to use and show up on tougher climbs. Some slopers make it obvious where to hold, but they’re still slopers because they’re so big your fingers don’t wrap around anything. Here is an article all about sloper holds.
Rock Climbing Grip Technique for Slopers Holds
Slopers can be one of the tougher techniques in climbing. The catch is that no two are really alike, so one fix doesn’t cover them all. Most of the time you can find a little indent in the hold, or if you’re lucky a spot where chalk has built up, and you plant your whole hand there. Since they’re so hard to hold, it usually helps to brush the hold clean, then load up your fingers and palm with chalk. If you plan to use your forearm on it, chalk your forearm too so it doesn’t get raw.
10. Undercling Climbing Holds
Underclings are any hold you grip from underneath. You can find them anywhere on a route, and with the right footholds they can be a great place to rest. They range in size from a couple of fingers up to something big enough for a kneebar. Here is an article all about undercling climbing holds.
Rock Climbing Grip Technique for Undercling Holds
The technique for underclings is pretty simple: get above the hold. If you’re below it, treat it like a pinch angled down, get your feet a couple of feet under the hold, and pull up so your weight comes level with or above the undercling. Once you’re level or higher, sink as many fingers under the hold as fit and pull up (think of a deadlift or a kettlebell swing). Once you’re standing tall and pulling up on it, you can leverage it to get a lot higher on the climb.
11. Flake Climbing Holds
A flake is a piece of rock that’s come away from the wall, leaving a crack between the flake and the main rock. Some climbers jam it like a crack, but you can also use it like a big jug or an edge. Depending on the size of the flake, you might get a couple of fingers on it or both hands.
Rock Climbing Grip Technique for Flake Holds
Flakes are a mix of jug and edge technique. Get as many fingers on the hold as you can. If it sticks up, put your weight below it. If it sticks out to the side, put your weight to the opposite side. Flakes can run really long, so you can use one to move a big distance sideways or up depending on which way it faces.
If the flake sticks up, you can move sideways easily by smearing your feet. Set your feet a couple of feet below the hold with your soles facing the wall and your toes pushing into it (that way you don’t need any footholds). Move your hands across the hold one at a time and shuffle your feet along as you go.
12. Horn Climbing Holds
Horn holds are like jugs, but instead of putting your palm on the hold you usually grab it from the side. Most horns have a wider base and get narrower toward the tip, so depending on your situation you can pick which part of the horn to hold.
Rock Climbing Grip Technique for Horn Holds
Horns look like jugs but bigger, and instead of grabbing the end it’s usually better to hold the side with your palm facing in toward your body. Most horns are fatter at the base near the wall and skinnier toward the tip, so find the spot that’s easiest to grip. Set your weight below the hold and slightly to the side so your elbows sit outside your shoulders. Horns are great to pull up on, but the better move is to work your feet and load your legs as much as you can as you move to the next hold.
13. Climbing Volume Holds
Climbing volumes are pieces that stick out from the wall. You’ll spot them most in the gym, but they’re part of every climbing wall. Even though a volume isn’t technically a handhold, it earns a spot on this list because it’s one of the most common things you’ll leverage with your hand.
Rock Climbing Grip Technique for Climbing Volume Holds
Using a volume depends entirely on the problem, and sometimes it’s more of an obstacle than something you hold. If you can hold it, use it like an edge. Get as many fingers on the volume as you can and put your weight opposite the angle of the hold so you’re pulling on it.
The other use for a volume, and maybe the more popular one, is to push off it with your foot to move your center of gravity closer to the next hold. On the foot side, volumes can work for a toe hook, a heel hook, or just a place to stand if they’re set in a handy spot.
14. Foothold Climbing Holds
Footholds are small blocks that aren’t big enough for your hands but give you enough surface to step on with your toe or the edge of your foot. Sometimes climbers use them as little finger holds for balance, but they’re meant for your feet. If your feet are the weak link, a set of footwork drills will do more for you than any amount of grip.
Rock Climbing Grip Technique for Climbing Footholds
The technique for footholds is to set the tip of your toe on top of the hold. If you’re struggling to “grip” it with your toe, a simple trick is to press your toe into the wall as much as you can and then drive your weight down into the hold. A common beginner mistake is not pushing hard enough or not putting enough weight on the hold, which is what makes you slip off.
How to Practice the Different Types of Climbing Holds
There are a lot of types of climbing holds, and they vary in shape and in the little crevices they’ve got, but these are the most common ones you’ll meet indoors and out. Bouldering holds and rock climbing holds are the same when it comes to the terminology. Bouldering holds are usually harder to use, though, and ask for more refined technique.
It’s a good idea to look honestly at your strengths and weaknesses so you can spot which holds give you trouble, then go find climbs that force you onto them. Here is a Climbing Hold Proficiency Test you’re welcome to use. The techniques I’ve suggested here aren’t the only way to do things, and there may be one that suits you better. Still, if you haven’t tried it my way, give it a shot and see what works for you. If you’ve got a way you like better, let me know. I’ll try it, and if I like it I’ll add it to this list.
Want to keep getting better between gym sessions? Level up your climbing with 15 minutes of training is our free newsletter, and it drops a short climbing drill in your inbox every week that takes about 15 minutes. It’s an easy way to turn what you just read about holds into real practice on the wall.
More About Training for Climbing:
- How To Climb More Often Without Getting Injured | Tried And Tested Methods For Recovery
- Lower Body Mobility And Flexibility Challenge
- Neglected Techniques Necessary For V4-V5 Progression
- 17 Footwork Drills For Climbing
- Mental Training For Climbing
- How Often And Hard Should You Climb To Get Gains?
- When Should You Start Hangboarding For Boulder’s
- Is Bouldering When Sore Bad?
- The Top 22 Climbing Techniques And Skills And How To Do Them
- 23 Tips For Climbing Slabs
- When To Flag In Climbing And How-To-Do It (With Videos)
- How To Learn Climbing Technique For Beginners
- What Should You Record In A Climbing Journal?
- Climbing Endurance: Muscle, Skin And Mental Training
- How To Deal With Fear Of Falling
- How Many Days Should You Climb Per Week?
- 5-10 Minute Warm-Up For Climbing
- What Is A Dyno And How To Do It
- What Is A Gaston In Climbing? Powerful Moves For Beginners
- Can Foam Rolling Improve Rock Climbing Performance?
- 7 Things Climbers Should Do On Rest Days For Better Performance
- When Do You Need A Rest Day?
- How To Climb Your Best – Pros And Cons Of Rest Days
- Static Vs Dynamic Climbing Movement: Pros And Cons
- 5 Habits For Healthy Climbing That You Haven’t Thought Of
- 5 Things To Improve Climbing Performance And Sustainability
- 10 Minute Workout Routines For Post Climbing Sessions
- How To Use Climbing Holds: Techniques For Improved Climbing
- A Guide For Climbers: Bouldering Drills 101
- 12 Easy Workouts To Increase Hand And Grip Strength For Climbers
- What Are Undercling Climbing Holds And Why Climbers Love/Hate Them
- What Is A Crimp In Rock Climbing And How To Train For Them
- 7 Common Mistakes in Rock Climbing For Beginners
Frequently asked questions
What are the main types of climbing holds?
The most common types of climbing holds are jugs, incuts or mini jugs, edges, side pulls, crimps, pinches, pockets, monos, slopers, underclings, flakes, horns, volumes, and footholds. That’s the 14 you’ll run into most, both indoors and outdoors.
Which climbing hold is the most dangerous?
Crimps carry the highest injury risk because you’re loading just the tips or pads of your fingers, which strains the tendons in your fingers, wrist, and arm. Using an open crimp and keeping most of your weight in your feet helps lower that risk.
What’s the difference between a pocket and a mono?
Both are holes in the rock. A pocket usually fits two or three fingers, while a mono only has room for one. Because a single finger does all the work, monos take more strength and carry a higher strain risk, so you’ll mostly see them on harder climbs.
How do you use a sloper hold?
Slopers are big rounded holds with no clear edge, so you plant your whole hand on them and rely on friction. Look for a slight indent or a chalked-up spot, brush the hold clean, and chalk your hand (and forearm if you’ll use it) well before you commit.
Are bouldering holds and rock climbing holds different?
The terminology is the same, so a jug is a jug whether you’re bouldering or climbing on a rope. Bouldering holds tend to be harder to use and ask for more refined technique, but the names and grips carry straight over.
