DIY Hangboard With Jugs and Edges for Less Than $15

Want a DIY hangboard with jugs and edges for less than $15 worth of new materials? I built mine for under $20 total, and the only things I actually paid for were sandpaper and screws. I borrowed the tools and used recycled wood for the rest. Plus, if you don’t want to punch ½-inch holes in your wall like most store-bought hangboards need, you’re going to love how we mounted this one.

If you want a cheap hangboard that still has different handhold angles, edge angles, and jugs across the top, then follow the DIY instructions below. Climbing gear adds up fast, and if you’re curious how the rest of a setup shakes out, here’s what a beginner climbing kit really costs.

How To Build a DIY Hangboard With Jugs and Edges for Less Than $15

Here’s the short version before we get into it. You start with two cheap boards, sand them down, route out the holds, cut the jugs and edges with a table saw, glue the pieces back together, and mount the whole thing with a cleat that holds well over 400 pounds. If you’d rather watch it happen, the full video walks through every step.

Table of Contents:

• Material and Recommended Tools
• How To Get Tools For Free
• Prep the Wood
• Designing the Hangboard
• Creating the Handholds
• Creating Jugs and Edges
• Create the Mount
• Mount the Hangboard

Material Needed

• Wood board: 2”x8”x39” 
• Wood board: 2”x3”x78” (cut in half to make two 39” boards)
• SandPaper 30 and 80-Grit (120 is optional but I recommend sticking with 80-Grit
• Dremel Sander bit 30 and 80-Grit
• Dremel Stone Sander bit
• Screws
• Wood Glue

Recommended Tools

• Electric Sander or a Sander Block
• Dremel
• Router
• Table Saw with Adjustable angles
• Hand Saw
• Wood Glue
• Countersink
• Paper, Tape and/or Spray Paint (optional)
• Leveler
• Stud Finder

After using my DIY hangboard for a couple of months, I noticed the depth of the finger holds wasn’t consistent, and a professionally made board tracks progress a little better. So I found one that’s relatively inexpensive and works really well. Check out the reviews and pricing from Backcountry here.

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How To Get Tools For Free

You can borrow tools by asking a neighbor, or by asking your family to ask their neighbors. You’d be surprised what your non-DIYer neighbors have sitting in their garage. I borrowed most of my tools from my dad, and the router he bought 10+ years ago had never been used once.

You can also rent tools at Lowes or Home Depot, but that costs more than the awkward conversation you might have if you just ask a neighbor.

One thing to keep in mind: if you break a borrowed tool, you need to replace it, so treat them well while you’ve got them. Luckily most tools are built to take a beating, so you’re unlikely to break one by accident.

Preparing the Wood

What you need:

• Wood board: 2”x8”x39” 
• Sander
• Sand Paper

Sanding off any finishes

1. The wood I borrowed had a few solid coats of stain, so I used a band sander with 30-grit sandpaper to strip the finish. Any sander would have worked, and I could have done it with a 30-grit sander block, but I don’t like sanding, so I used the electric sander to get it done faster.
2. After the finish was gone, I went over the whole board again with 80-grit sandpaper.
3. You could go over it once more with 120-grit, but honestly 120 feels too smooth to me. An 80-grit surface is easier to grip. That left a smooth, single-colored board that was ready for me to cut the holds.

Designing Your Hangboard

What you need:

• Ink and/or Spray Paint
• Paper

Outlining the Edges

If you want a 45-degree angle, then a 20-degree angle, then a 90-degree angle, mark where you want each one directly onto the wood with a pencil or pen.

Keep in mind which tools you’re going to use to cut the edges.

With a table saw, you can only cut one angle per pass. If you want all of the angles running in the same direction, you can do as many as you like, as long as you start with the deepest angles first and don’t mind the deeper angles sitting near the center.

For my design, I wanted a 45-degree angle that made a jug, plus a 45-degree sloper, and 30-degree and 90-degree edges.

Because of the jugs and the different angle directions, I had to cut my board into thirds to get every edge I wanted.

So I designed the hangboard edges knowing the board was getting cut into thirds. 

Outlining the Handholds

Since I knew the board was getting cut into thirds, I designed the handholds so there was at least ½ inch on either side of each planned cut. 

I tried making a template with paper and tape, but what I learned is that a marker or even a pencil works much better.

Ink/Spray Paint Template: If I did this project again, I’d make a guide for the router with ink or spray paint. 

For ink, I’d draw straight onto the board with a permanent marker, then route out wherever the ink is. If I messed up a line, I’d just sand it off.

If you don’t like freehanding the design, try this 

1. Print the template on a piece of paper
2. Punch holes around the outline with a nail or something similar
3. Tape the template onto the wood
4. Spray paint over the paper so the only paint that reaches the board comes through the holes you punched
5. Peel off the paper, and all that’s left is the wood with spray-painted dots outlining where your handholds go

Tape Templates: This was the second template I tried. I taped it exactly where I wanted the holds, then plunged the router through the tape. It was better than the paper template, but the tape still snagged on the router sometimes and got pulled off before I was done.

Paper Templates: This is the last option I’d consider for outlining the handholds, because it has some real drawbacks.

I tried it because I could design one half and then copy or print it again so both sides of the board matched.

If you go this route, either use a mirror setting on the printer so it’s the exact opposite, or make the ink dark enough to see the design through the back of the paper.

Here’s the big drawback and the reason I wouldn’t do it again: paper templates get shredded by the router while you work. Sometimes it only tears where you’re routing, but most of the time the whole thing goes.  

Once the router tears the paper apart, it’s useless. 

Creating Hand Holds

Now that the wood is prepped and the holds are outlined, it’s time to grab the router and cut them out.

You can use a drill or even a Dremel for this part, but a router is much easier and is built for exactly this kind of job.

What You Need:

• Router
• Dremel (recommended)
• Sandpaper (block or bit for dremel)

Router Bit Choice

I wanted the same height and shape on every handhold, so I used one bit for the whole project.

Different bits make different shapes. Some have rounded edges, some are straight, and some have curves built in. I used a bit with a rounded tip (that’s where the bottom of the hole sits in the board) and a straight edge (no extra curves where my fingers hang).

Adjust The Router Depth

Every router brand is a little different, but they all have a way to set how deep you go into the board. If you want a 2-inch deep hole (all the way through the board), set the router that deep. If you want a ½-inch hold, set it for that.

I read the manual to learn how to change the depth on my router, then tested those depths on a scrap piece of wood to make sure it was what I wanted.

Test Out The Router

I’d never used a router before, so I read the manual and watched a few YouTube videos before testing it on a scrap board. 

If I did this again, I’d practice making full handholds and try different techniques on scrap wood first, so by the time I touched my real board I’d have more reps in. I did test depth control on scrap, but I didn’t test my template or practice the sideways dragging motion with the router. Doing that ahead of time would have saved me a lot of grief.

Route Out The Holds

Now that you know how to set the router depth and you’ve tested it on scrap for your template and practiced moving it while it plunges, it’s time to do it for real.

Using your template (ideally permanent marker or spray paint), plunge the router into the spot where your first handhold goes. 

If you want a long hold, like a four-finger rail, then only plunge the router in a couple of centimeters at a time and drag it around the area you want carved out. That keeps you in control and leaves a cleaner finish (something I figured out after already making a mess of mine). 

Sand The Holes/Holds

Routers are great at making holes, but they leave jagged edges (at least when you’re new to one) that need to be smoothed out.

You can use a sanding block or sandpaper, but the Dremel is perfect for this if you’d rather not spend forever sanding, like me.

Anywhere there was an edge I didn’t want, I used 30-grit sandpaper to knock it down to where I wanted it, then switched to 80-grit to soften it up. 

Sometimes I had to use the stone sander bit for a corner I couldn’t reach with the basic sander bit.

One small tip for later: raw wood edges chew up your skin, so keep good climbing chalk nearby once the board is up. It helps you actually grip these holds.

Creating Jugs and Edges

This was easily the hardest part of building the hangboard, which is probably why most DIY boards just leave everything at a flat 90-degree angle. 

If you want to keep it simple, skip ahead to the mounting section. If you want jugs and different edge angles, keep reading.

I really recommend watching the video for this section, because it’s tough to picture without seeing it.

What You Need:

• Table Saw
• Hand Saw
• Dremel
• Wood Glue
• Paper Towel or Wash Cloth/Rag
• Clamps

I looked for an easier way to do this, and besides a CNC machine (which kind of defeats the point of a DIY guide), I didn’t find much. I did see people rig up an angled block with a table router online, so if you have access to a table router, it might be worth a look.

1. Cut the board into thirds, as outlined in the design section, with a table saw (a chop saw that reaches 8” works too).
2. Set the table saw angle to whatever you want the edge to be. For me, I wanted a 45-degree jug on the outer edges of the hangboard, so I set the saw to 45 degrees.
3. Mark on the table saw where the end of the blade lands so you don’t overcut the board.

Table saw blades are round, so the blade won’t cut all the way through right at its edge. It’ll score the board instead, meaning it cuts partway but not fully through.

4. Run the board through the saw until the mark on your board and the mark on the table saw line up
5. Set the table saw to the angle you want for the other part of the board
6. Run the board through until the mark on your board and the mark on the saw table line up
7. Set the table saw back to 90 degrees
8. Cut the board where the two angles meet
9. Use a hand saw to finish any cuts the table saw didn’t take all the way through.
10. Use a Dremel to smooth the corners or clean up any pieces that broke off along the way.
11. Repeat for each edge, angle, and piece of the hangboard.

I made the mistake of not mirroring one side of the board to the other. So instead of two jugs on the outside, I ended up with one jug on the outside of the far-left piece and one jug on the inside of the far-right piece.

Putting the Hangboard Pieces Back Together

If you followed the same process and edges, your hangboard is in three pieces right now with no way to mount it. To fix that, we’re going to glue everything back together.

This step is just to rejoin the wood. It has almost nothing to do with holding your weight (that comes next).

1. Put glue on the edges that need to join, spread it around with your finger, then press the edges together. 
2. Clamp the pieces together.
3. Wipe off any excess glue with a rag or paper towel.
4. Let it sit for 1 hour.

Tip: Grab a second set of hands so you can get the pieces of wood lined up flush together.

Building The Mounting System

A pre-built hangboard usually comes with a few giant bolts that leave holes big enough to stick your fingers through. 

I rent an apartment, and half-inch holes would wreck my deposit, so I needed a different way to mount it.

I found a mounting system that uses just three normal-size screws and holds over 400lbs (more than enough, even with another full-grown adult on my back while I use it).

For this hangboard DIY, we’re using the same French cleat mounting system carpenters use to hang cupboards, so it’s built to hold A LOT of weight. Each screw is rated for about 100lbs, and the wood holds well over a hundred pounds too, so the whole thing can carry well over 400 pounds.

What You Need:

• Wood board: 2”x3”x78” (cut in half to make two 39” boards)
• Wood Glue
• Clamps
• Counter Sink
• 2” Screws
• Table Saw
• Stud Finder
• Leveler
• Drill (optional)

Create the Mounting Board

The wood glue has had an hour to set. It’s still a little pliable but shouldn’t be dripping, so it’s ready for the mounting bracket on the back of the hangboard.

To make the mounting board, you’ll need two 1”x3”x39” boards and a table saw.

1. Using the table saw, cut one edge of each board at a 45-degree angle.

Add the Mounting Board to the Hangboard

Of the two mounting boards, one goes on the hangboard and one goes on the wall.

The board on the hangboard needs its longest side (the pointy edge) facing the wall, or it won’t hang. Keep that orientation in mind for the next step.

1. You don’t want any screws sticking out the back (they’d scratch the wall and keep the board from sitting flush), so before you screw the mounting board onto the hangboard, use the countersink bit to make a little lip the screw head can nestle into.
2. Put glue on the back of the mount board and glue it to the hangboard (this helps keep the three pieces in place while you use it, though it isn’t strictly necessary).
3. Using several screws per piece of hangboard, screw the mounting board into the hangboard. Remember the orientation so it mounts correctly.
4. Let the board sit for 24 hours, or until the glue is fully hardened and dry (check the glue bottle for timing).

Mounting The Hangboard

Now for the fun part (and the easiest part), mounting the hangboard so you can actually use it.

1. Decide where you want the hangboard mounted. Most climbers put it above a door frame so their legs can swing freely and their face isn’t pressed against the wall while hanging.
2. Use a stud finder and mark each stud in that spot with a pencil.
3. Use a leveler and the mounting board that goes against the wall. 
4. Mark on the wall and the mounting board where the three screw holes should be drilled.
5. Pre-drill the holes in the board and wall with a bit slightly smaller than the screw width and depth. 

I tried only drilling holes in the board and not the wall because I was being lazy, but I ended up unscrewing everything and pre-drilling the wall anyway. It was too hard to drive the screws all the way in without stripping them.

6. Use a countersink to make a lip on the mounting board so the screws sit flush with the wood.
7. Screw the mounting board into the wall.
8. Slide the hangboard on so the wall mount and the hangboard mount line up.

Start Your Hangboard Training Regimen

Don’t be one of those climbers who has a hangboard and never touches it. You put real time and effort into building this thing, so put it to work. 

If you’re building out a home setup, a crash pad underneath is a smart add for the days you’re pulling hard on the jugs.

The hard part is staying consistent. If you want a nudge to actually train two or three times a week, the free Send Edition newsletter sends you one short climbing drill you can knock out in about 15 minutes. It’s the easiest way I know to keep the momentum going after you’ve built the board. And if you’d rather have your hangboard sessions structured and tracked for you, the Grip & Grind app is where we keep the actual training plans.

Enjoy.

Frequently asked questions

How much does it cost to build a DIY hangboard with jugs and edges?

I built mine for under $20 total, and the only things I paid for were sandpaper and screws. I borrowed the tools and used recycled wood, so if you can source scrap wood and borrow a router and table saw, you can get the new-materials cost down close to $15.

What wood do I need for this hangboard?

You need one 2”x8”x39” board for the hangboard itself and one 2”x3”x78” board cut in half into two 39” boards for the mounting cleat. You’ll also want 30 and 80-grit sandpaper, screws, and wood glue.

How do I mount a hangboard without drilling big holes in the wall?

Use a French cleat, the same mounting system carpenters use to hang cupboards. It only needs three normal-size screws, sits flush against the wall, and holds over 400lbs. That’s how I mounted mine without wrecking my apartment deposit.

Do I need a table saw and a router to make it?

A router makes the handholds much easier, and a table saw is what lets you cut the jugs and different edge angles. You can carve holds with a drill or Dremel in a pinch, but if you want the angled edges and jugs, plan on borrowing or renting a table saw.

Is 80-grit or 120-grit better for the finish?

I’d stick with 80-grit. A 120-grit finish feels too smooth and gets slick under sweaty fingers, while 80-grit leaves just enough texture to grip. Chalk up and you’re set.

Sara Climbing Coach, Climbing Trainer, Writer

Sara is the founder of Send Edition, author of '77 Drills to Help You Climb Better,' the creator of 'Elevate Your Climbing: Training Planner and Tracker,' and climbing coach.

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