Should You Upgrade To An Assisted-Braking Belay Device?

In my first few years of climbing, I used an ATC and never thought twice about spending extra money on an assisted-braking belay device. Then I watched a bad accident happen at the crag (it wasn’t even ATC related), and it hit me that I wanted gear that shaves off every bit of risk I can in a sport that’s already dangerous.

So is an assisted braking belay device worth upgrading to? Every climber should use an assisted braking device while climbing indoors or outdoors.

This article walks through what to think about if you’re wondering whether to upgrade from a basic ATC to an auto-locking belay device. I’ll cover the different types of auto-locking (also called assisted-braking and auto-blocking) belay devices and how to use them. I’ve also laid out 5 reasons to upgrade and 5 reasons to stick with a tubular ATC.

If you don’t want to read the whole article, here’s a quick summary:

Basic ATCs are the most common belay devices out there. The trade-off is they have the fewest safety features of any belay device. An ATC is basically a metal device made of two tubes that hold the rope so the belayer can control how fast rope feeds to and from the climber. If something happens to the belayer, or the belayer loses control of the rope, the climber is the one who pays for it. A belay device with auto-locking features would keep that climber safe.

For example, if a fall happens and the belayer gets pulled into the cliffside and knocked unconscious, an assisted-braking device automatically stops the rope from running through it. 

Types of Assisted-Braking Belay Devices

There are two types of assisted-braking belay device: active and passive. Depending on the device, the braking (or auto-blocking) happens either by pinching the rope in a cam or by pinching the rope in the device itself. Either way, it’s a safety feature that can prevent serious injury or death. Here’s my favorite assisted-braking belay device (The Best Belay Device).

Active braking is when the device has a mechanical reaction in the cam system. Active braking devices also give you a way to control how fast the rope runs through the device. It’s an easy process: you just pull a lever. The further back you pull the lever, the faster the rope goes through the device.

Popular active-braking belay devices include the GriGri+, Camp Matik, Edelrid Eddy, and the Mad Rock Lifeguard. If you already own one of these, it’s worth learning to keep it running smoothly with a quick GriGri cleaning routine.

Passive assisted-braking belay devices need the belayer to pinch the rope between the device and the rope to stop it moving, using friction. They’re usually lighter and cheaper. Some passive devices ask for a bit more hand strength to control how fast the rope pays out.

Popular passive assisted-braking devices include the Black Diamond ATC XP and Pilot, Mammut Smart 2.0, and the Petzl Verso. If you’re brand new to belaying and still shopping around, it’s worth comparing a few of the best belay devices for beginner climbers before you commit.

If you’re thinking about upgrading to an assisted-braking device, you might be wondering which one to get. To get all the benefits, you’ll want an active device. They cost more, but the ease of use and the small amount of strength needed to run one is worth the extra money.

If you want to know what the best assisted-braking belay device is, check out my full guide to the best belay devices.

5 Reasons To Upgrade

1. Additional Safety: Assisted-braking belay devices can stop the rope even when the belayer can’t. Climbing outdoors adds risk like rockfall or getting slammed against the cliffside and knocked out. Because of that, you want to be as safe as possible, and an assisted-braking belay device is part of that.
2. Peace Of Mind: Knowing your belayer is on an auto-blocking device can take the edge off if you struggle with a fear of heights. I have a climbing friend who’s spent years working past his fear of heights, and he says that when belayers use GriGris or other assisted-braking devices, he feels more comfortable climbing higher and harder.
3. Easier To Let Climbers Down: Active assisted-braking devices have levers or other features that help you lower the climber. The GriGri, Trango Vergo, Edelrid Eddy, Mad Rock Lifeguard, and Camp Matik all have levers that help control how fast the rope runs through while you lower someone.
4. Less Stress To Use: Belaying a climber who’s prone to falling can be stressful, and an overstressed belayer is more likely to make a mistake. Auto-blocking devices take some of that stress off because they can catch the rope if the belayer drops it.
5. Helps Improve Your Climbing: A lot of climbers feel more comfortable taking risks and climbing harder when they know the belayer is on an assisted-braking device. The more you push yourself, the more you improve.

How To Use Assisted-Braking Devices

The devices work in a similar way, but each one is built a little differently. If you’re worried about learning how to use yours, ask a friend. It’s worth heading to a climbing gym and asking someone to show you. There are videos online, but when a climber’s safety is on the line, in-person instruction is best.

I asked one of the employees at the gym I climb at to show me how to use my device, and he was happy to walk me through it. (see the belay device I use here) It only took a couple of minutes to learn and remember for top-rope belaying. Lead belaying takes a little longer, because you’re taking and giving rope constantly. 

Once you get comfortable belaying, don’t get lazy. Some belayers admit they lean on the device too much and chat with other people while lowering the climber. You still need to give the climber your full attention, even when your device makes lowering easier and less stressful. It’s the same habit that keeps the rest of your kit safe, like staying on top of climbing rope maintenance and care. 

5 Reasons To Stick With ATCs

Most climbers agree that assisted-braking belay devices are an important tool. Even so, some climbers feel they should keep using the basic tubular ATC. Here’s the case for staying put:

1. Sign of an OG Climber: A lot of newer climbers use assisted-braking devices, so reaching for an ATC signals you were climbing before the new wave showed up.
2. Safety Isn’t A Concern: Some climbers who stick with a basic ATC feel confident they can give the safest belay, even if they got knocked out. The problem is, becoming unconscious is one of the most dangerous things that can happen while belaying, and it’s one of the main reasons assisted-braking devices were designed in the first place.
3. You’ve tried multiple assisted-braking devices and don’t like them: Assisted-braking devices feel very different to use than a tubular ATC, and that can make you uncomfortable while you’re learning. If that’s you, try learning from a different person. Who teaches you can make a big difference in how you feel about the device.
4. The extra weight: Some climbers feel every ounce matters on a big wall, and assisted-braking devices weigh more than tubular ATCs. It’s only a couple of ounces though, and unless you’re competing, you won’t notice it.
5. Assisted-braking belay devices cost more: A basic ATC can run as low as $13, while assisted-braking devices can run more than $60. That cost can be a real barrier and keep climbers from upgrading.

If you’d like a short skills drop each week to go with the safer belay, the free Send Edition newsletter sends you one climbing drill you can knock out in about 15 minutes. It’s a simple way to keep improving between sessions.

Conclusion

Hopefully this helps you figure out whether upgrading to an assisted-braking device is right for you. An assisted-braking belay device can be a real upgrade to the safety and staying power of your climbing. We upgraded to an active assisted-braking device (see which one here), and the peace of mind we get from it has made it easier for us to climb harder and take more risks. That’s helped our climbing get better too. 

Are you thinking about upgrading your belay device to assisted-braking? Or have you used one before? I’d love to hear what you thought.

Frequently asked questions

Is an assisted-braking belay device worth upgrading to?

For most climbers, yes. An assisted-braking belay device can stop the rope even when the belayer can’t, like if they get knocked unconscious by rockfall or slammed into the cliffside. That extra safety is the main reason to upgrade from a basic ATC.

What’s the difference between active and passive assisted-braking devices?

Active devices have a mechanical cam and a lever to control how fast the rope feeds, like the GriGri+, Camp Matik, Edelrid Eddy, and Mad Rock Lifeguard. Passive devices, like the Mammut Smart 2.0 or Petzl Verso, rely on you pinching the rope for friction. Active devices cost more but are easier to use.

How much do assisted-braking belay devices cost?

A basic ATC can run as low as $13, while assisted-braking devices can run more than $60. The higher price is one of the main reasons some climbers hold off on upgrading, but the added safety usually makes it worth it.

How do I learn to use an assisted-braking device?

Every device is built a little differently, so the best way to learn is in person. Ask a friend or a climbing gym employee to show you. Online videos can help, but when a climber’s safety is on the line, hands-on instruction beats video every time.

Sara Climbing Coach, Climbing Trainer, Writer

Sara is the founder of Send Edition, author of '77 Drills to Help You Climb Better,' the creator of 'Elevate Your Climbing: Training Planner and Tracker,' and climbing coach.

See Full Bio

Climbing Training