The Best Chalk For Climbing and Bouldering

Once you get more serious about climbing, you start wondering if you need to upgrade your chalk to a new brand or a different consistency. When I first started, I grabbed the cheapest chalk I could find. Since then I’ve tried a bunch of brands and everything from ultra-chunky to ultra-fine, all to figure out what worked for me. So if you’re hunting for the best chalk for climbing, here’s what I learned along the way.

My preference isn’t going to match everyone else’s, so I read a ton of articles and got input from hundreds of climbers about their favorite chalk and whether they think it actually makes a difference.

Long story short: the brand and type of chalk you use does make a difference for comfort, but it makes little difference for climbing performance. If you want the details on that, my quick chalk guide for rock climbers digs into it more.

If you want to hear about the different chalk brands and what climbers said, keep reading.

Can You Climb Without Chalk

Before you decide what brand to buy, you might be wondering if chalk is even necessary at all. When I introduce friends to climbing, they usually don’t like wearing chalk, and if they do use it, it’s so little that I don’t think it makes a difference. So if people who are just getting into the sport climb without chalk, is it actually necessary, or is it just something we’ve gotten used to in climbing culture?

To find some scientific proof behind whether you need chalk, I looked at what published studies had to say, and I was surprised to learn that even scientists haven’t decided if chalk is necessary to climb. 

Every study I read seemed to suggest something different. One said you need to minimize the amount of chalk on your hand to maximize friction, and another said chalk helped with endurance. 

I wrote a whole article on it here if you want to go into greater detail. Otherwise, let me get to the point: some people benefit from wearing chalk while climbing and other people don’t.

Chalk Consistency: Chunky to Fine

With so many climbing chalk brands out there, it’s hard to sift through them and find the best one for you. An easier way to narrow things down is to figure out what consistency you prefer first. That way you only look at the brands that offer it. Here’s a quick rundown of the most common chalk consistencies, and if you want to go deeper, I compared them head to head in chunky vs. fine chalk.

Chunky

Chunky chalk is exactly what it sounds like. It’s clumps from a chalk brick broken down into smaller pieces so you can crush them in your hands. Clumps can range from an inch across down to an eighth of an inch, so the range is pretty big.

A lot of climbers who use chunky chalk say they like how it feels smushed into their fingertips, and it makes them feel like the chalk lasts longer. Plenty of climbers also mention it isn’t as messy as fine chalk because it doesn’t create a cloud of powder when you dunk your hands in the bag. Some folks use that as evidence that chunky chalk lasts longer than fine chalk.

Fine

Fine chalk is chalk that’s been ground down into a smooth powder. To apply it, you usually just dip your fingers in the bag and rub your hands together. A lot of climbers who use fine chalk say they like how soft it feels and how it seems to work into the little cracks in your fingertips better.

A Mix of Fine and Chunky

This is the most common type of climbing chalk. Some climbers figure it’s the most popular because it’s easier to produce, so there’s just more of it around. Others say it’s because you get the best of both: the feeling of crushing the chalk between your fingertips (which you really have to try to understand) and the soft powder that gets into all the little crevasses.

The Best Chalk For Climbing: Popular Brands Reviewed

Chalk gets used in climbing, gymnastics and lifting, so there are a lot of brands fighting for climbers’ attention. Here’s a quick review of the top climbing brands and what climbers have to say about them.

Friction Labs

Consistency: Ranges from Chunky to Fine

Friction Labs is easy to spot thanks to its packaging with the Donkey wearing boxing gloves, the Gorilla and the Unicorn. They’re best known for their ultra-fine chalk (which is super soft), but they also make chunky and ultra-chunky chalk. 

Most climbers who use Friction Labs mix the chunky and ultra-fine together. As for me, I thought I knew what ultra-fine chalk was until I felt how soft Friction Labs makes theirs. I’ve since decided you probably won’t find anything finer than that.

On top of their loose chalk, they also make alcohol-free liquid chalk and a chalk ball. I haven’t used the chalk ball, but their liquid chalk is the best I’ve used. I can often use Friction Labs’ liquid chalk for 25 to 30 meters before I need to reapply, and my hands sweat a lot. If you’re weighing your options there, I broke it all down in liquid chalk vs. dry chalk for bouldering.

Black Diamond

Consistency: Mix between Chunky and Fine

Black Diamond is one of the most popular brands for all things climbing gear, and they make great chalk. Their most popular options are Black Gold and White Gold. Black Gold is probably their biggest differentiator from other brands. It’s 90% of their White Gold chalk mixed with 10% Upsalite, which is supposed to be very absorbent.

My experience with White Gold and Black Gold is that Black Gold does feel different than other brands. It’s a mix of fine and chunky, so you can smash the clumps if that’s your thing or just wiggle your fingers around in the bag. 

Joshua Tree

Consistency: Mostly Chunky

Joshua Tree is best known for its climbing salve, but they also make chalk that’s different from anything else out there. Most of their chalk is scented. The most popular scent is Flower Power, but they also have Ice and Fire. According to other climbers, the Ice scent makes your hands feel cooler while the Fire scent makes them feel warmer.

I haven’t had a chance to try it yet, but it’s on my list.

Compared to other chalk brands, the focus isn’t on consistency (it’s chunky, in case you were wondering), it’s on the herbal benefits. For example, the description of Flower Power says that on top of drying out your hands, which is what you want chalk for, it gives a calming effect for your mind and your worn fingertips with its blend of Lavender, Rose Geranium and “a touch of Patchouli.”

I haven’t tried aromatherapy through chalk, but I have tried it through essential oils while training, and there’s something to be said about how different scents can affect you while you climb.

Metolius

Consistency: Mix between Chunky and Fine

Metolius is the brand I used when I first started climbing. You’ll find it in most climbing shops and outdoor recreation stores. When you look at reviews, the top ratings usually mention how much chalk you get for the price. That’s no surprise, since it’s usually cheaper than most other brands. It’s probably why it’s one of the most popular chalk brands for people just starting out.

It comes in different sizes and as loose chalk or a chalk ball. Unlike most chalk brands, though, the consistency is the same across all of its products: chunky.

Other Brands

There are hundreds of other brands covering climbing, gymnastics and weightlifting chalk. Here are a couple that aren’t quite big enough for their own section but are popular enough to get a mention.

Pure Chalk is a brand leading the colored chalk space. They focus on chalk that won’t wreck the look of the rock while still giving you the dryness you need to reach the top.

Psychi Chalk is probably more popular in other sports than climbing, but most of their reviews say the chalk is great quality at a great price. Plus they have cool branding.

Primo Chalk is on the pricier side, but according to most of their ratings, the cost is worth it. The brand boasts that it’s better for your hands than regular chalk because it has essential oils and natural Epsom salt mixed in, plus the added benefit of being naturally antibacterial.

Get Weekly Climbing Drills In Your Inbox

Dialing in your chalk is one small piece of climbing better. If you want to keep leveling up, I run a free newsletter that sends you a short climbing drill every week that takes about 15 minutes. Join the free newsletter here and start putting those 15 minutes to work.

Other Articles You May Like

Chalk FAQ: A Quick Guide For Rock Climbers

As you may have noticed, the brands and products above all focus on loose chalk. If you want to know more about the different types of chalk, how people use it, how people remove it and so on, check out this comprehensive guide and FAQ for climbing chalk.

Liquid Chalk Vs. Dry Chalk For Bouldering (Hint: Dry Chalk Is Better)

If you’re getting into bouldering and want to know whether to buy liquid chalk or dry/loose chalk, this article breaks down every consideration you might not have thought of to help you decide which is best for you.

Frequently asked questions

What is the best chalk for climbing?

There isn’t one single best chalk for every climber. The brand and consistency you use mostly affect comfort, not performance. Friction Labs is a favorite for its super soft ultra-fine chalk, Black Diamond’s Black Gold is a solid all-around mix, and Metolius is a great budget pick for beginners. The best chalk for you is the one that feels right in your hands.

Does the brand of chalk actually improve climbing performance?

From everything I’ve tried and everything hundreds of climbers told me, the brand makes a real difference for comfort but very little difference for actual performance. Pick the consistency and feel you like, and don’t stress too much about squeezing extra grades out of a specific brand.

Is chunky or fine chalk better?

It comes down to preference. Chunky chalk feels good crushed into your fingertips and makes less of a powder cloud, while fine chalk feels soft and works into the little cracks in your skin. A mix of fine and chunky is the most common option because you get a bit of both.

Do you need chalk to climb?

Not necessarily. Even published studies haven’t fully settled whether chalk is required to climb. Some climbers benefit from it and some don’t, especially newer climbers who use very little. If your hands sweat a lot, chalk will probably help you more.

Sara Climbing Coach, Climbing Trainer, Writer

Sara is the founder of Send Edition, author of '77 Drills to Help You Climb Better,' the creator of 'Elevate Your Climbing: Training Planner and Tracker,' and climbing coach.

See Full Bio

Climbing Training